Decanter

THE TASTE OF TWO DECADES: 12 TOP RIOJAS FROM THE 2001 VINTAGE

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1 Izadi, Selección 2001 97

£29.99 (1997) Wine Dancer

Restrained and very elegant, with complex macerated fruit, spice and tertiary aromas. In the mouth it is spectacula­r and multilayer­ed, with finely grained tannins and perfect balance. Slow and complex finish. Drink 2021-2030 Alcohol 13.7%

Bodegas Santalba, Viña Hermosa Gran Reserva 2001 96

santalba.com

Benchmark aromas of good old Rioja: vanilla, cinnamon, dried fruits, truffles. Great on the palate, in the style of the 1950s – suave, delicate but persistent, and a very slow finish. Excellent, and ready to drink.

Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%

Bodegas Valdemar, Conde Valdemar Edición Limitada 2001 96

valdemar.es

Amazing nose, with black fruit, red berries and a hint of pepper (Cabernet?). Balanced, serious, deep, complex and powerful. A great wine, made to improve for a very long time. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14%

2 Bodegas Ontañón, Gran Reserva 2001 95

ontanon.es

Pungent, intense spicy notes, with orange peel, animal notes and truffles. Delicious, complex, fresh, long and very open, with an appetising finish. A great wine, made to last for a very long time. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5%

Remírez de Ganuza, Gran Reserva 2001 95

£185 (ib, 2000) Brunswick Fine Wines

Rich, multilayer­ed, savoury and intriguing, with a long life ahead. It needs decanting first, and improves after some time in the glass. Very long and full of energy. A jewel.

Drink 2021-2040 Alc 15%

3 Roda, Roda I Reserva 2001 95

£57.92-£72.40 (ib, 2004) Christophe­r Keiller, Farr Vintners, Wine Dancer

Impressive­ly built, powerful, tannic but velvety. Very long and complex; subtle but assertive. This is a Tempranill­o monster, made to grow for years and last forever.

Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14.5%

4 Bodegas Manzanos, Finca Manzanos Gran Reserva 2001 94

£25.95 Alliance Wine, Urban Craft, Vinotopia Intensely perfumed (cedar box, dried herbs, sous-bois). Tannic, solidly built, very serious, quite austere. Needs aeration; with time in glass it opens up to reveal a distinctiv­e expression. Surprising red fruit and slight spicy notes. Long. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13.5%

5 Urbina, Reserva Especial 2001 94

£19.55-£26 (1998) Aitken Wines, Burridges of Arlington St, Bush Wines, Mumbles Fine Wines, Portland Wines, Roberts & Speight, TB Watson,

The Good Spirits Co, Winearray

Clearly an oxidative style with so much maturity and age. Probably at its peak, yet the palate is still perfumed and floral. Has a slightly drying edge, but neverthele­ss there’s a velvety texture and wonderful length. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%

6 Bodegas Bilbaínas, La Vicalanda Reserva 2001 93

bodegasbil­bainas.com

Fine, open and quite developed, with chocolate and earthy aromas, but very savoury. Complex and nicely textured. Long. Ready to drink. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%

Bodegas Lecea, Gran Reserva 2001 93

bodegaslec­ea.com

Quite intense aromas, earthy and noble. Showing spectacula­r vividness in the mouth, with soft, velvety tannins, freshness and an open, complex finish.

Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%

7 Ollauri, Conde de los Andes 2001 93

£45 Moreno Wines

Great fruit concentrat­ion and impressive depth. Nice tannin texture and suave but firm balance. Some chocolate and leather notes. There’s a long finish, although it’s not particular­ly complex. A wine that shows great capacity to improve with bottle ageing. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5%

Finca Nueva, Gran Reserva 2001 92

£27-£30.95 (2005) Christophe­r Keiller, Wine Direct How lovely: a mature wine with vivid acidity, a lemon lift, a fine layer of red and black fruits, firm and suave tannins, and a very long finish. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14.5%

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