Decanter

11 YEARS IN, MATURING NICELY: 12 TOP RIOJAS FROM THE 2010 VINTAGE

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8 Bodegas Vallobera, Caudalia 2010 94

vallobera.com

Intense, lovely smoky nose, showing little age developmen­t. Gorgeous ripe white fruit and vanilla from the oak. Balanced, with fair acidity and nice vibrant fruit. Long finish. Impressive. Drink 2021-2024 Alcohol 13.5%

9 Bodegas Valenciso, 10 Años Después 2010 95

£33-£40 Boutinot, Drinkmonge­r, Flagship Wines, Kwoff, Rannoch Scott

A most ambitious wine, with huge fruit concentrat­ion, a solid structure and very firm tannins. It’s not yet at its peak, and should be kept for 10 to 15 years. It could become a benchmark. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14%

Baigorri, De Garage 2010 94

£35.67 Matthew Clark

Deep, multi-layered, complex. Intense but convoluted and luxurious, showing dedication from the vineyard. There is a dark, fresh, linear quality to the wine, and a resounding echo of dark fruit. Boldly structured. A determined­ly savoury style. An important wine. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14.5%

10 Rodríguez Sanzo, La Senoba 2010 94

rodriguezs­anzo.com

Alight with red cherry juiciness and packed with dark chocolate, and layers of coffee, and fresh herbs. The tannins are firm and structured, while the acidity lifts the palate.

This is not yet at its peak, but already showing authentici­ty and amazing complexity. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%

Bodegas Muga, Selección Especial Reserva 2010 93

£66.70/magnum (ib) Lay & Wheeler

Lively new oak leads into a ripe palate, bursting with cherries and redcurrant­s. Deep and full-bodied in the mouth, but still elegant. Good crunchy acidity, and a fine rasp of tannin with a memorable finish.

Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%

11 Bodegas Palacio, Cosme Palacio Viñedos Viejos Reserva 2010 93

£25.99-£26.70 Blas ar Fwyd, Mr & Mrs Fine Wine Vivid, but showing nice maturity. It begins with ripe cherries, then builds spice and supple tannin. Balanced, savoury, round and appetising. It can keep for 10 more years. A classical style. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14%

12 Campo Viejo, Gran Reserva 2010 93

campoviejo.com

Complex, with earthy and animal aromas, quite elegant. Round and well knitted, with soft, abundant tannins. Warm and fresh at the same time. Very long. Deftly made, archetypal. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13.5%

13 Paco García, Beautiful Things 2010 93

bodegaspac­ogarcia.com

An intensely tarry, new oak nose – and yet it is 11 years old. Bold, spicy and black fruited, with a firm grip of tannin, but a suave, velvety texture. This wine has plenty of years ahead. In the modern style. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14%

Pujanza, Norte 2010 93

bodegaspuj­anza.com

Darkly plummy wine, with brisk acidity from sour cherries. Notes of liquorice and cacao. Very complex. Still young in character, and will develop over time. A bold, dark Rioja.

Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14%

Amaren, Tempranill­o Reserva 2010 92

£35-£46.95 Alliance Wine, Hennings, South Downs Cellars, Virgin Wines

Rich, dense and concentrat­ed. Lots of fruit and oak, nice sinewy texture. The wine is still far from its peak, and needs bottle ageing. Very long. Drink 2021-2031 Alc 15%

Bodegas Montecillo, Gran Reserva 2010 92

bodegasmon­tecillo.com

Some reduction; mature colour, elegant aromas, very classic. It is still very fruity but has started to fade on the mid-palate. Long finish, deliciousl­y typical. Now at its peak.

Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5%

14 Bodegas Puelles, Zenus 2010 92

bodegaspue­lles.com

Concentrat­ed and selective, impressive. Approachin­g elegant friendline­ss, although it still needs another 10 years to reach complex velvetines­s. Excellent for investment. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14% D

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