Heights of quality: Anson’s Ao Yun view
Ao Yun, Yunnan, China 2018 95
£250 Clos19, Hedonism
As ever a wine of impact, and here you get a ton of damson and black cherry fruits, with fragrant and fresh citrus peel and sage alongside earthier smoked cumin spice. Polished, smooth and ripe tannins have plenty of movement even when the wine remains young in structure and feel. Stands on its own, confident and accomplished, though tasting the three new 2018 village site wines alongside it serves to add to an understanding of just how exceptionally unusual Ao Yun is.
Just released in March 2022.
Drink 2025-2040 Alcohol 15%
Moet Hennessy ShangriLa Winery, Adong Cru, Yunnan, China 2018 93
Mainland China only
Cold ash aromatics, fresh acidity with waves of rosebud, smoked raspberry and bilberry fruits, a hum of power. At 2,600m, this is the highest of the four villages that make up Ao Yun, and where the winery building is located. The soils here are mainly schist and granite, with the deepest amount of clay, meaning cooler soils – slightly cooler temperatures, too, as the altitude rises, to the point where ripening is not assured without careful vineyard work, but with attention to detail the quality can be exceptional. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Syrah, 8% Cabernet Franc, later harvest into November. Due for release May 2022. Drink 2023-2034 Alc 14.7%
Moet Hennessy Shangri-La Winery, Shuori Cru, Yunnan, China 2018 93
Mainland China only
Clear density and weight; you feel the push and pull of the tannin-fruit balance through the palate. An espresso, coffee bean smoke comes in waves as it opens, along with the succulent black fruits typical of Ao Yun. Set across 7ha of vines at 2,500m on west-facing slopes where harvest almost always takes place in October. There are 14 families overseeing 106 blocks that have deep clay: cool soils, yet with schist and limestone deposits dominant. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. Due for release May 2022. Drink 2023-2034 Alc 14.4%
Moet Hennessy Shangri-La Winery, Xidang Cru, Yunnan, China 2018 90
Mainland China only
Fresh red fruits, soft tannins but good grip with wild thyme and sage spices that build through the palate. This has a sappy feel, lighter in structure than the other villages, and is more ready to drink now. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, 17% Cabernet Franc. At 2,100m on the right bank of the Mekong river, a little away from the three other villages of Ao Yun. These are breathtakingly steep slopes that have warmer easternfacing soils and a higher level of gravel and sand.
Due for release May 2022.
Drink 2023-2034 Alc 14.3%