Bartolotta’s pick: 10 top sustainable Sicilians to try
1 Tasca d’Almerita, Fondazione Whitaker Mozia Grillo 2020 94
£23.33 Millésima
A saline, juicy and vibrant style of Grillo from the tiny Phoenician island of Mozia, off the western tip of Sicily. The nose shows some very delicate notes of aromatic herbs and lime with an orange blossom touch. On the palate there’s a pleasant dialogue between sweet tropical fruit and a generous, zesty citrus juiciness with a mineral finish. Drink 2022-2027 Alcohol 14%
2 Alessandro di Camporeale, Vigna di Mandranova Grillo 2020 92
£18.30 (2021) Tannico†
From the high hills of the Belice valley, not too far from Palermo, this organic Grillo is a great example of how the variety can bring Sicily to a totally different game when it comes to zesty, mineral and salt-driven whites. I love the super-fragrant citrus aromas combined with an almond and anise edge and a delicious, sweet prickly pear complexity. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.5%
3 Cusumano, Lucido 2020 90
£13.80 Tannico†
A very floral Lucido – a biotype of the most-cultivated variety in Sicily, Catarratto. The nose is a wonderful combination of gentle honeysuckle, lemon and tangerine citrus with a remarkable complexity of Mediterranean herbs. A pretty, full-bodied white with plenty of alcoholic power offering a very round texture that’s balanced by grapefruity acidity and a nice mineral finish. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.5% Donnafugata, SurSur Grillo 2020 90 £15.10-£17.49 Carruthers & Kent, Valvona & Crolla, Vinvm, Wine Direct
Produced in the southwest, this pale white has a lychee and melon nose opening up to reveal some very pleasant scents of white peach, lemon and basil. The palate seems to show the character of the two varieties from which Grillo was born in the 19th century: the creaminess and viscosity of Catarratto and the floral aromatics of Zibibbo. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 14% Principi di Butera, Carizza Insolia 2020 90 £17 Zonin UK A really generous white from the ancient variety Inzolia (Ansonica) cultivated on the chalky, limestone terroir of the southerncentral part of Sicily near Licata. Wildflowers, almonds and honeydew melon aromas lead to a very fruit-driven palate with a smooth touch and a very generous pear, tropical fruit and vanilla finish. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 12.5% 4 Casa Grazia, Laetitya Frappato 2020 95 casagrazia.com
This demonstrates just how Frappato from the southeast (near Gela) can show the elegant and light side of Sicilian reds. It’s a very aromatic, light-bodied organic red that has a seductive nose of rose petals, hibiscus, mountain strawberries and black pepper. On the palate it shows a really inviting crunchy, juicy character with so much drinkability and energy. Drink 2022-2032
Alc 13.5% 5 Salvatore Tamburello, 306 Nero d’Avola 2020 94 £19.45 (2017) Independent Wine
Try this organic Nero d’Avola grown in the eastern part of the island for an intriguingly light and crunchy version of Sicily’s most famous red variety. There’s no oak involved here, but so much red berry crush that it jumps right out of the glass. It’s all about the redcurrants with orange peel and a gunflint complexity. Agile, savoury and really refreshing. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14% 6 Planeta, Nocera 2018 93
£20.40-£23.50 Carruthers & Kent, Great Wines Direct, The Great Wine Co, Vinvm
Up at the northeast tip of the island, there’s a little-known variety called Nocera. This has so much complexity – a Mediterranean herb and pomegranate-driven red – yet it is so easy to drink. A lovely sapidity develops on the palate, which almost becomes salty and reflects its seaside character, along with plenty of wild fennel and liquorice.
Drink 2022-2030 Alc 12.5% Duca di Salaparuta, Passo delle Mule Nero d’Avola 2020 92 £20.95-£22.49 Club Vini, Moreno, North & South
A really approachable Nero d’Avola, contrasting the maturity resulting from very hot days and windy nights with the reactive savouriness possibly provided by the limestone and silex soils. Sour cherries, redcurrants and a touch of vanilla, mild oak spice adding some depth to this welldesigned red. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5% Terre di Gratia, 170 Perricone 2020 91 terredigratia.com
It’s pretty rare to come across Perricone in purezza – it’s an austere, tannic, tough-toproduce variety often blended with Nero d’Avola. This wine, from western Sicily, is all about its blue flowers and blue berries, with intense tobacco and balsamic notes then a mocha-like finish. A lot of structure, but smoother and rounder than expected. Organic. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13% D