FIVE OF THE BEST: COGNACS FOR BEGINNERS
Cognac is considered to be the world’s greatest brandy and, like a fine wine, it owes that status to the land it calls home: the legally protected Cognac region of western France. This is a large and diverse area
with more than 79,000ha of vineyards; distillation turns wine into a fruity spirit that’s ready for maturation in French oak barrels. The amount of time spent in barrel defines the style of the Cognac: at least two years for VS, four for VSOP, 10 for XO – and many decades for the finest blends and vintages. If you’re new to Cognac or have only tasted a few different bottles, here’s a selection to launch you on your voyage of discovery…
1 Frapin 1270
£37.50-£42.99/70cl Averys, Hay Wines, Hedonism, Master of Malt, The Bottle Club,
The Drink Shop, The Whisky Exchange
VS Cognacs are the starting-point, and they’re best consumed mixed and in cocktails like the Sidecar or the Vieux Carré. A rare example from Grande Champagne, this is unusually aromatic and supple, thanks to distillation on the lees and a gentle touch in the cellar. Why 1270? That’s the year when the Frapin family started growing grapes in the region. Alcohol 40% 2 Bisquit & Dubouché VSOP
£56.95/70cl The Whisky Exchange
Cognac is dominated by four big companies (Courvoisier, Hennessy, Rémy Martin and Martell), but you have to delve deeper to fully appreciate the region’s diversity. The Bisquit & Dubouché range was rebooted last year. Combining eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Fins Bois and Bons Bois, it is supple, rounded and fruity, with dry spice from the oak and an appealingly honeyed texture. Alc 40% 3 H by Hine VSOP
£34.95-£46/70cl Widely available
Aged for a minimum of four years, VSOP Cognacs are great all-rounders. This is ideal for cocktails or mixing with tonic or ginger ale, thanks to its exuberant character of lime blossom, jasmine and light tropical fruit, combining fruit from Grande and Petite Champagne. To quote the Hine website:
‘If it were a young man, it would have the keen eye of Dick Diver in Fitzgerald’s Tender is the Night.’ Well, quite. Alc 40% 4 Martell VSOP Red Barrels
£39-£44.99/70cl Amazon UK, Drinks Direct,
Drink Supermarket, Ocado, The Whisky Exchange Another versatile VSOP Cognac – perfect for mixing and cocktails, but smooth enough to sip neat as well. Martell is known for its linear, fruit-forward style, and this example combines a basket of tropical fruits with spice and tannin from quite forward oak. Alc 40% 5 Rémy Martin XO
£135-£165/70cl Amathus Drinks, Amazon UK, Distillers Direct, Fortnum & Mason, Gerry’s, Harvey Nichols, Master of Malt, Ocado, Prestige Drinks, Robbie’s, The Whisky Exchange
Another of the four big houses, Rémy Martin specialises in producing Cognacs at VSOP level and above, sourcing grapes from Grande and Petite Champagne. This XO epitomises its signature style of supple smoothness – rich with aromas of date, cinnamon and nutmeg, reinforced by tannin from the oak, lifted by the merest pinch of anise. A benchmark XO. Alc 40% D
(see cognac.fr),