Les Bessards
By Matt Walls, Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair for the Rhône
The northern Rhône is a tale of granite, found almost exclusively on the west bank of the river. There is however a small outcrop on the east bank that was scythed off by the angry waters long ago. As other rocks became fused to it over time, the hill of Hermitage was created.
Only the westernmost quarter of the hill of Hermitage consists of this primordial granite, and most is encapsulated within one lieu-dit:
Les Bessards. This conical section runs down from beneath the iconic Hermitage chapel (pictured, top left) down to the foot of the hill, mostly facing south. There’s little topsoil, just a gritty sand composed of weathered rock. When a vine finally takes hold, the roots run deep.
Given the diversity of soils across the appellation and the different nuances they bring, the tradition in Hermitage has always been to blend wines from different lieux-dits. Le Méal contributes power and richness, Les Greffieux lower down adds fruit and elegance. What Les Bessards brings is a vertical spine.
Caroline Frey, owner of one the appellation’s largest vineyard holders Paul Jaboulet Aîné, owns a parcel that she blends into her La Chapelle Hermitage: ‘Les Bessards demonstrates year after year that it’s one of the greatest terroirs. Even in the grapes, you can recognise the tannic texture you then find in the wines: fine, powdery and structured, with infinite length.’
There aren’t many producers that bottle a pure example of Les Bessards, but they deliver an unmistakably upright, tense and saline expression of Hermitage. To drink Les Bessards is to drink liquid rock.
Try:
M Chapoutier, Le Pavillon Hermitage 2010
£237.50-£312 (ib) Goedhuis & Co, In Vino Veritas
Delas, Les Bessards Hermitage 2012
£99.17 (ib)-£145 Cru, Handford, Ideal Wine Co,
Lay & Wheeler, Seckford Wines, VinQuinn, WoodWinters
Location Hermitage, northern Rhône Owners Bernard Faurie, Cave de Tain, Delas, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Domaine Marc Sorrel, M Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet Aîné
Size 19.9ha
Altitude 130m-260m
Aspect Southeast, south, southwest
Primary soils Granite
Grape varieties Syrah 19.2ha, Marsanne 0.5ha, Roussanne 0.2ha