Vignarionda
If there is one site that is simultaneously the quintessence of Barolo’s power and longevity yet equally singular in its expression, it is Vignarionda (also written Vigna Rionda). Firm, unwavering tannins come with majestic refinement. And its signature austerity is countered by achingly haunting perfumes.
While not recognised as one of Barolo’s top historical ‘crus’ on Renato Ratti’s 1976 Carta del Barolo map, Vignarionda gained renown through Bruno Giacosa’s single-vineyard négociant bottlings labelled Collina Rionda. Today, its 10.24ha are divided between 10 proprietors.
According to Sergio Germano, winemaker at Ettore Germano, calcareous marl imparts imposing structure while the presence of sand lends aroma. However, Vignarionda boasts a similar soil and altitude as other predominantly south-facing MGAs of Serralunga d’Alba, making it difficult to pinpoint what truly distinguishes it.
‘It is one of the mysteries of wine,’ declares writer and cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti, who has painstakingly mapped the vineyards of Barolo (see enogea.it). He explains that Vignarionda ripens relatively early compared to other MGAs as it is protected by the frontal hills of Perno and Castelletto. Above all, Masnaghetti characterises Vignarionda as one of Barolo’s most uniform MGAs for its size, which explains the recognisable and distinct style across estates.
Moreover, the greatness of Vignarionda isn’t limited to a particular vintage or the age of the
vines. The vineyard triumphs in challenging years, as shown by transcendent examples coming from hot and arid 2017 as well as wet and cool 2014. It yields impressive wines even from young vines, such as those of Ettore Germano and Guido Porro, while old-vine bottlings such as Giovanni Rosso’s Ester Canale (pictured) and Poderi e Cantine Oddero capture the soul and profundity of this hallowed hill.
Try:
Giovanni Rosso, Ester Canale Vigna Rionda, Barolo 2016 £266.67-£326.67 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd,
Mann Fine Wine
Massolino, Vigna Rionda Riserva, Barolo 2014 £154.99 Berry Bros & Rudd, Cru, Cult Wines, Fortnum & Mason, Liberty Wines, North & South Wines
Poderi e Cantine Oddero, Vignarionda Riserva, Barolo 2013 £178.50 Asset Wines, Astrum Wine Cellars, Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Falcon Vintners, Honest Grapes D
Location Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
Size 10.24ha
Altitude 260m-360m
Aspect South to southwest, with a small portion facing west
Primary soils Calcareous marl
Grape varieties Nebbiolo >98%, Dolcetto 1%,
Barbera 0.5%
Owners Anna Rosa Regis, Ettore Germano,
Figli Luigi Oddero, Giacomo Anselma, Giovanni Rosso,
Guido Porro, Luigi Pira, Massolino, Poderi e Cantine Oddero, Terre del Barolo (Arnaldo Rivera)