YOUR REIMS ADDRESS BOOK
ACCOMMODATION
Hôtel de la Paix Popular, central, well-run, and a cut above most Best Westerns.
9 Rue Buirette
La Caserne Chanzy New hotel with some heavenly rooms offering a view of the cathedral. 18 Rue Tronsson Ducoudray lacasernechanzy.com
Novotel Suites Reims Centre I often stay here as it’s convenient for the train station and near the smart Boulingrin quarter, whose glory is the refurbished Halles Boulingrin food market. Big rooms and great as a workspace, with famous Novotel attentiveness and easy parking. 1 Rue Edouard Mignot all.accor.com
Résidence Eisenhower For somewhere more luxurious, this sumptuous mini-palace is Reims’ newest eyrie. 17 Bd Lundy residence-eisenhower.com
And, of course, there’s always Airbnb.
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
Au Bon Manger Reims’ coolest hangout for organic and biodynamic Champagne, and a chance to rub shoulders with some of the region’s rockstar growers. The mainly cold-plate food is from top suppliers. aubonmanger.fr
Au Cul de Poule Hearty food but the cooking is of real skill and there’s a joyous, unpressured ambience. I love the steak tartare, prepared any of seven ways. A great Champagne list, with big houses and growers alike. auculdepoule.com
Domaine Les Crayères A superlative hotel and two-star Michelin restaurant with tranquillity, special service and Champagne in depth. Sip on the terrace, overlooking Champagne’s largest lawn. lescrayeres.com
L’Assiette Champenoise Simply the best. Unremittingly high-end it is, with its three Michelin stars, but it’s not stiff. And there’s stylish accommodation to be enjoyed, too. assiettechampenoise.com
La Brasserie Le Boulingrin
Over the years I’ve probably eaten more oysters and downed more steak frites and cod mornay here than anywhere else. boulingrin.fr
Le Bocal Strictly for fish fanatics, and in the lively and fashionable Boulingrin district. Select a live lobster from the tank or enjoy oysters with their greatest accompaniment – Champagne! restaurantlebocal.fr
Le Coq Rouge Popular bar à vins where you’re likely to find Reims’ professional jeunesse dorée rubbing shoulders with Champagne makers, enjoying great bistro food and an extensive Champagne list. If nothing else, order the gambas en tempura – big prawns with a light batter and spicy dip. Fabulous with Champagne DieboltVallois, Fleur de Passion 2012. The sister and brother places, Le P’tit Coq and La Braise, are good too. Champagnes at prices close to UK retail. facebook.com/lecoqrouge.reims
Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage Maybe the best Champagne list anywhere – small-plate food, but the action is in that list. Get there early in spring and summer. Perfect for group taste-athons. winebar-reims.com
Racine Reims’ smash-hit Japanese-French fusion restaurant holds two Michelin stars and is run by chef Kazuyuki Tanaka. The city’s hottest restaurant ticket right now: book well ahead. racine.re
Royal Champagne Recently refurbished, this is now Champagne’s smartest hotel. Its main restaurant quickly grabbed a Michelin star and the bistro Le Bellevue makes delicious food, too – and if the sun allows, you will have the best terrace meal and view in all Champagne. It’s in Champillon, which is more than halfway to Epernay, so it’s a taxi ride out. royalchampagne.com
The Glue Pot It’s best to avoid the oftenheaving Place Drouet d’Erlon, a tourist haven of hotels and bars, but make an exception for The Glue Pot, which serves excellent grower Champagnes in Zalto glasses. The food is so-so (although a friend loves the steak tartare here!), but there’s a fun vibe. Good for leisurely tasting outside mealtimes with a group. thegluepot.com
SHOPPING
La Cave des Sacres Right next to the cathedral, my city-centre go-to if I need a bottle for the hotel room. Most wine region city shops’ prices are uppish, but here is good value. cavedessacres.com
Trésors de Champagne Stocking the whole range of the prestigious Special Club Champagne producers, but much more than a shop. Great for tasting Champagne flights with friends. And do look up at what’s hanging from the ceiling. boutique-tresors-champagne.com D