TOP PRODUCER Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 100
Tasting the 2022 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, one cannot doubt its perfection. The super-ripe aromas of mulberry and pomegranate roll from the glass, accented with hints of smoke, spice and earth, and all pervaded by a saline mineral quality. Cyrielle Rousseau describes the wine as having ‘more of everything, [while] the Chambertin is more focused’. There is exceptional density and immense length – this extraordinary wine is among the greatest I have tasted from this estate. Drink 2030-2080
RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE, TOP PRODUCER Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru Monopole 100
Some vintages of Romanée-Conti when tasted from barrel give but a hint of future greatness. This is not the case with the 2022, which is immediately impressive. All its grandeur is revealed, from the ripe, plummy fruit with hints of liquorice, cedar, rose petals and earth, to the dense and firmly tannic texture that balances massive weight and supreme elegance. A powerful wine that I immediately qualified as ‘perfect’, and it would not surprise me if this were still compellingly beautiful a century from now. Drink 2030-2100
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée Grand Cru Monopole 99
An exhilarating wine at the highest level, on par with the riveting 2019. There are profuse aromas of red and black fruit, exotic Asian spices, a hint of smoke and a touch of sweet oak spice. Despite its effortlessly silky texture, one appreciates the density and substance with time. It’s hard to ask for more wine than this offers. Given the lush texture, it should drink well young but will also age effortlessly for decades. Biodynamic. Drink 2030-2080
Domaine Cécile Tremblay, Chapelle Chambertin Grand Cru 98
This superb offering has everything one can hope for from this appellation, yet it is a model of understated elegance. Initially with floral and spicy fruit intensity, the texture is silky and approachable, yet substantial extract and firm tannins make themselves felt on the long finish. Grapes are from the domaine’s 0.36ha plot in Les Gémeaux at the base of the Clos de Bèze slope. Despite its approachable nature, this has the substance to age for decades. Biodynamic. Drink 2025-2075
10 Domaine Chandon de Briailles, Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru 98
Subtle and understated aromas of ripe black cherry and peony with hints of smoke, spice and a savoury touch at the end. Delicate texture but still structured and long. The grapes come from 0.35ha of old vines at the top of the slope. This wine should open more fully in five years and will drink well for at least another 50 after that. Biodynamic. Drink 2025-2075
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, Musigny Grand Cru 98
A tasting of each of the seven 2022 Musigny VV sub-sections and an approximate blend hint at a wine of almost voluptuous sensuality, with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit and hints of earth, smoke and liquorice that waft from the glass. The texture is powerfully tannic and dense but almost infinitely silky, and there is a dynamic interplay between the perfumed fruit and robust structure. Ideally, wait a decade before opening. Drink 2028-2080
Domaine Duroché, GriotteChambertin Grand Cru 98
A seductive wine, pointedly fresh and tannic with super-concentrated and focused black cherry and mulberry fruit, and abundant aromas of liquorice and ginger. The fruit is the tiny production of very old vines (the oldest back to 1922) at the base of the En Griotte climat. Fermented entirely as whole clusters and aged in a single, older barrel to ensure its purity of fruit. Marvellous density and richness – a masterpiece. Drink 2025-2075
11 Domaine Georges MugneretGibourg, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 98
Tasting the 2022s from this cellar, the Clos Vougeot was the most expressive wine of all, with spicy mulberry and black plum fruit aromas and silky texture, while the abundant extract and freshness help carry the wine to a gratifying finish. The fruit – from a 0.3ha plot replanted 70 years ago – is destemmed and fermented on native yeasts before ageing in 70% new cask. This should be approachable early, but refrain from drinking for at least five years for best results. Drink 2025-2075
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, Richebourg Grand Cru 98
Immediately impressive with a beguiling combination of fruit expression, silkiness and length. The nose boasts raspberry, bramble and kirsch with notes of violets, earth and smoke. The texture is deceptively silky, and with time the firm tannins and rich extract make themselves felt and lead into a lingering finish. The grapes are sourced from 0.3ha in Les Richebourgs, next to DRC – they are mostly destemmed and gently fermented on native yeasts before the wine is aged in cask. Enormous ageing potential. Drink 2028-2080
Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 97
The blend of the entire clos is superb in 2022, with a seductive black cherry and mulberry fruit that is at once fresh and round, with complexity coming from earth and mineral notes and a bit of polished oak spice. The selection for this wine has been changed slightly, with fruit from a portion of replanted top-quality vines that are now reaching maturity included in the blend. It’s a compelling wine that will live for decades. Organic. Drink 2028-2070
TOP VALUE Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 95
A delicious wine with abundant aromas of ripe mulberry fruit touched with notes of violets, smoke and earth. The texture is firm and elegant, with admirable finesse and a lingering finish. The grapes are from a 0.8ha parcel in one of the top terroirs for Pinot in Chassagne, spread over two lieux-dits, Ez Crottes and Guerchère, which fall under the Morgeot umbrella. Drink 2025-2040
TOP VALUE Domaine Michel Lafarge, Anthologie, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 95
This incredible wine defies all expectations, with its pronounced cherry aromas, hints of earth, smoke and fresh saddle leather. Dense and long, it is produced from 95-year-old vines and is a classic blend of half Pinot Noir, half Gamay planted, picked and vinified together. Quantity is limited: two 500-litre puncheons (one new) and a regular barrel; bottled only in magnum, this is eminently worth seeking out. Organic. Drink 2028-2040
12 TOP VALUE Domaine BerthautGerbet, En Combe Roy, Fixin 94
Aromas of plum and mulberry, leather, smoke and an edge of wild herbs. The texture is firm and tannic, with impressive substance and length: classic Côte de Nuits. The grapes are from a plot of 0.37ha located just under the premiers crus Arvelets and Hervelets, planted with 60-year-old vines that deliver solid power each year. Drink 2028-2040
13 TOP VALUE Domaine Jessiaume, La Cassière, Santenay 94
Jessiaume is using the 2ha of domaine vines it recently recovered from a sharecropping contract to produce this lovely wine with aromatic raspberry fruit and a floral edge. This is supple and approachable, with a pleasant sweetness to the fruit, structure and freshness. It’s a noticeable step up from the other villagelevel bottlings. Organic. Drink 2024-2030
TOP VALUE Domaine Amiot Servelle, Bourgogne Côte d’Or 93
Perfumed, aromatic black cherry character with floral notes and a bit of spice. Supple and approachable now but not lacking in structure. The grapes – all from Chambolle but outside the village appellation – are destemmed and fermented in used casks before ageing. Among the region’s best value for everyday Pinot Noir, and perfect for drinking on release or over the next five years. Organic. Drink 2024-2030
TOP VALUE Domaine Chicotot, Aux St-Juliens, Nuits-St-Georges 93
This wine surprises with its profoundly dark colour and lovely forward blackberry fruit with hints of violets, earth and spice. It’s supple and approachable, with a pronounced sweet black fruit character. The fruit is fermented as whole clusters, with extraction achieved by moistening the cap with a bucket. The result has an arresting fruit concentration for a villagelevel wine. Drinkable on release. Organic. Drink 2025-2040
14 TOP VALUE Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Cru Le Clos du Roy 93
This wine has a ripe, plummy fruit aroma and earthy complexity that develop on the palate. Straight and a little strict, it will still drink on release but will be better in three to five years. The grapes come from a 2.54ha vineyard holding planted in 1971 and 1982, on limestone soils exposed to the south, making this an exceptional site. Drink 2025-2040
TOP VALUE Domaine Trapet, Le Meix Fringuet, Côte de Nuits-Villages 93
This pleasant, approachable wine is a superb introduction to the Trapet style, with its perfumed raspberry and pomegranate fruit aromas and a hint of spice. The texture is a bit light, but the palate has rewarding complexity and a supple balance that lingers on the palate. The vines were originally planted in the garden of the family house in the 1950s. The house now belongs a cousin of the Trapets, and they purchase the fruit. This will drink well on release and over the next several years. Biodynamic. Drink 2024-2030
TOP PRODUCER TOP VALUE Domaine du Cellier aux Moines, Le Petit Cellier, Givry 92
This raspberry-scented wine has surprising complexity for a village-level wine, with hints of wild herbs, earth, smoke and leather. The texture is also striking, with rewarding freshness and grippy tannins. The estate is replacing old vines with superior massal selection, but until that’s finished this wine is being made from the old-vine fruit, all declassified from premier cru. Organic. Drink 2024-2030
TOP VALUE Domaine Roger Belland, Maranges 1er Cru Clos Roussots 92
Tasted blind, this wine impressed with its pronounced aromas of ripe mulberry and fig with an edge of smoky spice. It’s firm and tannic, with a pleasant mineral underpinning. The grapes come from 55-year-old vines in clay soils with grass between the rows. Fruit is destemmed and fermented with a gentle infusion before ageing for a year in cask. Suitable for mid-term ageing. Drink 2024-2030