Casseroles

You don’t often find casseroles on a menu these days – in fact, how often do you cook one at home? Or if you do, maybe you call it a stew? Strictly the term refers to the pot in which the dish is cooked, but it basically refers to any slow-cooked dish that’s simmered in the oven. There’s a slightly retro connotation to the word casserole, though, that implies a more traditional, hearty kind of dish, the question being whether you match it for weight with your wine or go for a slightly lighter option as a contrast. It also depends on the liquid you use – many old-fashioned casseroles specify beer or cider in the recipe, rather than wine. Tomato, or the absence of it, also makes a difference to a wine pairing.

BEEF DAUBE

Generally cooked with a hearty red, which would also go with it. Red Rhône varieties – in this instance Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre – are the obvious option, or GSM blends from elsewhere such as South Africa or Australia. Other robust reds, for example Priorat or a red Douro, will work too. (The latter’s good with a carbonnade.)

CHICKEN CASSEROLE

Can take a number of forms, but is likely to be lighter than a beef- or lamb-based one, especially if cooked with cider. I’d generally go for a rich, textured white such as an old-vine Chenin Blanc, or a Rhône or Languedoc blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne and/or Viognier. White Grenache/Garnacha on its own works well, too.

SAUSAGE CASSEROLE

Very old-school, hearty and rustic, though these days it might well take the form of a mini-cassoulet. I think Malbec – whether from Cahors or Argentina – is perfectly suited to this kind of food, or an inexpensive Barbera from Piedmont, especially if the recipe includes tomato.