Decanter

Kanonkop, Cabernet Sauvignon, Simonsberg-Stellenbos­ch, South Africa 2019

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Tina Gellie 97

Anne Krebiehl MW 97

Michaela Morris 96

£40 Frontier Fine Wines, Lay & Wheeler, Majestic

In 2023, Kanonkop (owned by the fourth generation of the founding family, brothers Johann and Paul Kriege) celebrated 50 years of wine; the inaugural release being the 1973 vintage of this Cabernet Sauvignon. Joining in 2002, Abrie Beeslaar soon became only the third winemaker in the farm’s history, replacing Beyers Truter (1981-2003) who followed Kanonkop’s first official winemaker Jan Boland Coetzee (1968-1981). Of the estate’s 95ha of mainly dry-farmed vines, 35% are Cabernet Sauvignon, averaging 30 years, from Simonsberg in Stellenbos­ch, used for this varietal cuvée as well as Kanonkop’s flagship Paul Sauer Bordeaux blend. This 2019 was fermented in open-top concrete vessels then aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, 50% new and 50% second fill.

Tina Gellie Gorgeously seductive with its satin mouthfeel, silky tannins and flavours of smoked meat, saddle leather, green olives, plum skin sappiness and black fruit richness. Like diving into a cool, deep, dark pool. Beautiful freshness, length and composure – pitch perfect for drinking now but will age very well. What a belter.

Anne Krebiehl MW Smoke and earth, tobacco, the palate is dense but super-elegant, unravels like silk. Fine tannin, savoury umami edges, yet such salty, gorgeously ripe fruit. Altogether brilliant, with a lovely, serene balance – the ideal of proportion­s.

Michaela Morris Aromas are open, a bit flinty, but the palate is where it’s all happening: starts seductive but finishes serious, in the best possible way. Still needs time. The nice, savoury herbal character promises much.

Drink 2024-2040 Alc 12.5%

Nominated by Malu Lambert

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