Hidalgo, La Gitana Manzanilla En Rama, Jerez, Spain NV

Tina Gellie 95

Anne Krebiehl MW 95

Michaela Morris 95

£17-£20 Widely available via independent merchants Bodegas Hidalgo was founded in 1792 and is based in the seaside city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. It is the last remaining family-run business to produce and export its own unblended, single-solera Sherries. As with all manzanilla, this is made from 100% Palomino grapes grown on white albariza soils at Hidalgo’s highest-quality vineyards of El Cuadrado at Balbaina Alta, and is matured over eight years beneath a layer of flor, using the traditional solera system of fractional blending in American oak casks. The en rama style means the wine is freshly bottled, natural and unfined, straight from the cask. Only 35 of the solera’s 1,000-litre capacity barrels were used for this spring 2023 release.

Tina Gellie Very impressive quality for under £20 – and could be in the Classic category as it’s such a benchmark example of the manzanilla style. Saline, fresh and singing with its briney olive, Marcona almonds, tangy apple and yeasty notes. Deliciously moreish, bracingly crisp and crying out for a bucket of prawns. Yum!

Anne Krebiehl MW Salty, green walnut skins, absolutely savoury, tangy, totally mouthfilling and oh-so salty – umami bomb deliciousness. And so long. Michaela Morris Classically green apple, almondy brackiness. Firmly structured and persistent. If I ordered a glass of this, I’d be so satisfied. Doughy snap to finish. Drink while fresh. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 15%

Nominated by Julie Sheppard