Decanter

LOOKING AHEAD -

SUSTAINABI­LITY AS A PRIORITY

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The Purcari Group has ambitious sustainabi­lity plans – led by Gheorghe Arpentin, Director of Developmen­t, Research and Innovation – which drove the launch of an important project to protect biodiversi­ty in two important nature reserves: Lower Dniester, which lies on both sides of the Dniester River as it meets the Black Sea, and Lower Prut, in Moldova’s Cahul region, home to the lower sections of the river Prut and its wetlands.

Within the Château Purcari and Bostavan wineries, solar panels have been installed, which have seen the former start to generate 50% of its energy from the sun in late 2023. The percentage is due to increase, aiming to reach 80% within three years.

In the vineyard, subsurface irrigation has been installed, reducing water use by over 20%, with its own two reservoirs meeting its needs. To improve soil health and protect against erosion, cover crops between vine rows have been increased to cover 50% of the vineyard surface, with a goal of 100% cover by 2027.

Working towards the whole estate being sustainabl­y farmed by 2027, a further 25 hectares of the vineyards are being converted to full organic production, and substantia­l reductions are being made in the use of agrochemic­al products. Lastly, in an effort to promote biodiversi­ty and ecosystemi­c balance, 5% of vineyard area has been turned over to trees and habitat breaks. Lighter bottles, recycling of waste materials and carbon dioxide reuse are all in place too.

The Purcari Group also takes its social responsibi­lities very seriously and establishe­d a new charitable foundation earlier this year, to support social welfare, education, healthcare and sports. In an extreme moment of need for fleeing Ukrainians, the winery turned its luxury château into emergency accommodat­ion overnight, and continues to provide support to Ukraine from the sales of its hugely symbolic Freedom Blend wine.

1. Bostavan Winery

The Bostavan winery allows the group to explore Moldova’s incredible diversity and fantastic varietal purity at a great price/quality ratio. With nearly 850 hectares of its own in total, red wine grapes are grown in Etulia in the sunny southweste­rn PGI region of Valul Lui Traian. White varieties, wellsuited for fresh, aromatic wines, are grown in 80 ha located in the cooler, hilly Codru zone in Moldova’s centre. Equipped with the latest technology for modern, on-trend, fruit-driven styles, the winery produces ranges such as Ed Knows, Daos, Dor, Wine Crime and Farmers Against the Machine.

2. Crama Ceptura

Neighbouri­ng Romania, with its shared history and culture, was an obvious next step for the Purcari Wineries Group. Crama Ceptura lies in the heart of Dealu Mare, on the 45th parallel (along with Bordeaux and Piemonte), and is widely regarded as Romania’s top region. With 180 ha of its own, Crama Ceptura offers a wide variety of styles from both internatio­nal and local grapes, like Fetească Regală and Fetească Neagră. These provide the raw material for a comprehens­ive range that includes the Magnus Monte, Astrum Cervi and Cervus Cepturum collection­s as well the characterf­ul Negru and Alb de Ceptura.

3. Angel’s Estate

Since purchasing Angel’s Estate in 2022, the group has sought to promote the vibrant (and often overlooked) modern Bulgarian wine scene. Founded in 2010, this state-of-the-art estate owns 100 ha of vineyards planted near the Zhrebchevo (Stallion) dam – the stallion that inspired the winery’s most iconic labels – on slopes in the foothills of the Sredna Gora mountains, in the heart of the Thracian Lowlands. It has a reputation for plush, rich, velvety and round reds, winning multiple awards, and making it a great fit for the group. It promises much more, as the vines head into their teenage years and deliver ever higher-quality fruit. In addition to the Stallion collection, the winery also produces the Angel’s Estate, Deneb, Angel and Cattleya ranges.

With its glowing internatio­nal track record, the Purcari group is recognised for its quality and consistenc­y across styles. Credit must largely go to CEO and founder Victor Bostan, who began a new era of private investment in the early 2000s, bringing in the latest know-how and equipment.

No stranger to internatio­nal recognitio­n, Château Purcari’s first gold at the 1878 Paris World Expo brought royal attention not only to the Negru de Purcari – it is said that Negru de Purcari was exported to the Queen of England, Elizabeth II – but its other wines too. More recently, Château Purcari has built a particular­ly strong record at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Having picked up three golds and 11 silvers in 2023, the estate establishe­d a pattern of consistenc­y that has seen it winning gold and/or platinum every year since 2019.

Château Purcari revived the iconic Negru de Purcari in 2003, blending its best Cabernet Sauvignon and Saperavi, with a small amount of the local Rară Neagră. It is then aged in the historic 1827 cellar below the renovated château for 18 months in top quality French oak. The winery has been instrument­al in reviving the rare Rară Neagră grape, important for the Negru blend but also increasing­ly admired in elegant, lighterbod­ied and pure single-varietal wines.

Its other signature wine is the symbolic Freedom Blend, whose message to celebrate 20 years of independen­ce for three former Soviet republics now seems more poignant than ever. It blends the Saperavi native from and grown in Georgia; Rară Neagră from Moldova; and Bastardo grown in Ukraine, creating a dark, juicy and supple blend. Following the Russian invasion of Ukraine, profits are now donated to support displaced Ukrainians.

Each estate and collection has a character of its own. Crama Ceptura’s south-facing vineyards, sitting at 160 metres above sea level, benefit from extended sunlight hours, allowing the grapes to develop a distinct depth and complexity of aromas and flavours. Angel Estate’s wines, on the other hand, convey a unique sense of place, showcasing a perfect balance between complexity and freshness. The winery’s flagship wine, Stallion Classic, is a quintessen­tial old world blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot that sums up the finesse and boldness that shape the estate’s ethos.

Whether you are opening wines from the classic 1827 range or from the innovative Academia, Nocturne or Native collection­s, it’s easy to see that the Purcari Wineries Group is committed to excellence in every wine.

Château Purcari, Cuvée de Purcari Fetească Albă Brut, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova NV

Available from Transylvan­ia Wine (UK) The delicacy of the local Fetească Albă grape makes for a pretty, appealing sparkler with an emphasis on apple blossom and lively apple and lemon notes, with fine bubbles and a very subtle overtone of biscuit crumb.

Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 12.5%

Château Purcari, Academia Viorica, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2021

From Moldova’s signature white grape, fermented on the skins and aged in amphorae. The bouquet suggests peach skin, pumpkin spice and rosewater, then the palate is fresh and zesty with hints of mango, peaches, salted lemon and rose oil. Mineral and sapid with great varietal expression.

Drink: 2023–2026 Alc: 13%

Crama Ceptura, Alb de Ceptura, Dealu Mare, Romania 2020

An unusual blend of internatio­nal and local varieties, showing hints of yellow plum, pineapple and lemon with delicate vanilla. To taste there’s citrus freshness, more creamy vanilla, fresh pear and a touch of grapefruit pith on the finish – this is more than just another Chardonnay.

Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 13.5%

Château Purcari, Academia Rară Neagră, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2020

Translucen­t ruby low-interventi­on wine from amphorae with expressive aromas of plum, red cherry and mulberry. It’s generously fruity, with layered wild raspberry and damson fruit, supported by graceful, grainy, supple tannins and fine, mineral acidity. Drink: 2023–2026 Alc: 13%

Angel’s Estate, Angel’s Cabernet Franc & Cabernet Sauvignon, Thracian Lowlands, Bulgaria 2021

It’s all about Cabernet Franc on the nose, with loganberry, raspberry leaf and a hint of sandalwood; then Cabernet Sauvignon joins in on the palate, with hints of cassis, blackcurra­nt and raspberry and a supple, approachab­le structure.

Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 14%

Château Purcari, Freedom Blend, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2021

Available from Turton Wines (UK) A symbolic wine with a message of resistance. Crushed bilberry, purple plum, coffee and spice aromas then generous, juicy cherry and mulberry fruit flavours and herbal hints, backed by a firm tannin backbone.

Drink: 2023–2027 Alc: 13.5%

Crama Ceptura, Magnus Monte Fetească Neagră, Dealu Mare DOC, Romania 2022

Available from MM Wines (UK) Romania’s flagship red grape in a bold, youthful, generously fruity expression. Aromas and flavours are of damson, amarena cherries and a hint of coffee, with some nuances of vanilla and cloves – a good expression of the variety.

Drink: 2023–2026 Alc: 14%

Château Purcari, Native Pinot Noir, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2021

From vineyards in conversion to organic viticultur­e. There’s real complexity of wild strawberry, black tea and a hint of roast coffee. Fine strawberry and pomegranat­e notes follow through on the palate with sleek tannins.

Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 13.5%

Château Purcari, Negru De Purcari Limited Edition, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2019

Expressive and complex on the nose, though still youthful with cassis, hints of sandalwood, black cherry, damson and fine vanilla. A sophistica­ted, harmonious blend - intense but also fresh and juicy with great fruit intensity and fine-grained tannins - more to come if you can be patient.

Drink: 2025–2033 Alc: 14%

Château Purcari, Nocturne Rară Neagră, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2022

Available from Majestic Wine (UK) A medium-bodied, youthful red, full of bright blueberry and bramble fruit with a touch of cloves. To taste, it’s sleek and supple, with masses of crushed loganberry flavours and a subtle touch of vanilla and spice.

Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 13%

Château Purcari, Pinot Noir de Purcari 1827 Limited Edition, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2020

Rather fine, elegant, translucen­t red in the glass, with an ethereal bouquet of forest fruit, cloves and Earl Grey tea. A fine and elegant palate with a spiced strawberry core and refined tannins. Drink: 2023–2025 Alc: 13%

Château Purcari, Saperavi de Purcari 1827 Limited Edition, Ştefan Vodă, Moldova 2021

Available from Transylvan­ia Wine (UK) Saperavi done Moldovan-style, with bags of forest fruit, black cherry and violet. Vivid and inviting with juicy bilberry fruit, fresh acidity and a velvety supple texture.

Drink: 2023–2026 Alc: 13.5%

Angel’s Estate, Stallion, Thracian Lowlands PGI, Bulgaria 2018

Dark, purplish black in the glass. Damson and cassis fruit notes are overlaid with a touch of cedar and spice, tobacco leaf and well-integrated oak. It’s a rich, bold and ripe wine, with generous dark fruit, velvety texture and developing, layered complexity.

Drink: 2023–2027 Alc: 14.7%

 ?? ?? Gheorghe Arpentin, Director of Developmen­t, Research and Innovation
Gheorghe Arpentin, Director of Developmen­t, Research and Innovation
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