Languedoc’s new appellation

Keep your eyes peeled for wines from Grés de Montpellier, the first French region to win appellation status since Pic St-Loup was bumped up the hierarchy in 2017. The wines – all red – are predominantly made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, alongside Cinsault, Carignan and Morrastel (better known in Rioja as Graciano). Vineyards stretch for 60km in fragmented pockets around the city of Montpellier, draped over gently rolling hills with stony soils and influenced by their close proximity to the Mediterranean.

As the appellation application process in France is infamously long, the news represents a big win for producers, solidifying the region’s identity – but what does it actually mean for wine drinkers? Given it was previously known as ‘Languedoc – Grés de Montpellier’, losing the word ‘Languedoc’ arguably makes the labelling less informative, although luckily the word Montpellier helps consumers situate the region. In the long term, as the reputation of the appellation develops, consumers should come to recognise the name as an indication of quality and of a particular style.

A recent blind tasting showed that many wines were alluring in their peppery spice, liquorice and wild thyme scents, and ripe fleshy fruit, although some veered towards over-extraction and overt jamminess. The embossed bottle, emblazoned with the appellation name and a large Occitan cross, provides a real stamp of authenticity and southern identity. Look out for wines from Château de Flaugergues – if you’re in the area, visit the beautiful gardens of its impressive château – as well as those from Mas des Colibris and Domaine de Roquemale (Les Grés 2020, £21.10 Shelved Wine). montpellier.vin