Decanter

Origin story: Remelluri’s inaugural Lindes release

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1 Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de Peciña, Rioja 2020 94

£27.50* The Sourcing Table

From a cool, high amphitheat­re of vines in stony, calcareous soils, this big, broadshoul­dered Rioja is replete with slightly austere but expressive blue fruit, a touch of balsamic and pleasingly high acidity. The floral elements entice, violet especially, and there’s a slightly meaty edge and just a wisp of smoke. Linear and precise, with robust tannins, it’s a wine with a beautiful underlying freshness that needs time in the glass. Drink 2024-2034 Alcohol 14%

Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de Abalos, Rioja 2020 93

£27.50* The Sourcing Table

A historic wine village, home to presses carved into the rock dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries, Abalos has calcareous clay/loam soils with limestone outcrops.

It’s a wine of great precision: dark berry fruit, a supple mid-palate and lipsmackin­gly herbal garrigue character. The tannins are relatively pronounced, and the finish beautifull­y fresh. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14%

2 Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de Labastida, Rioja 2020 92

£28 Salusbury Winestore

An important grape-growing village in La Rioja Alta, Labastida has calcareous clay soils with lots of stones. The relatively high altitude makes for a plush but precise wine with lots of black fruit, excellent breadth on the palate and plenty of baking spices layered onto a ripe, rounded, opulent core. Dark chocolate and ground coffee, with a touch of toffee, persist on the excellent finish. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14%

Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de Rivas de Tereso, Rioja 2020 92

£27.50* The Sourcing Table

A mountain vineyard at the foot of the Peñacerrad­a pass, this is just about as high as vines get in Rioja Alta – in places at above 700m. The most Garnacha-rich of the Lindes wines (38% of the blend), Rivas de Tereso shows precise, fine, sweet red fruit alongside some gutsier, meatier flavours.

There’s real structure here and plenty of chalky freshness alongside darker liquorice and blue fruit notes – and a gloriously silky texture. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14%

3 Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja 2020 91

£27.50 Lechevalie­r, R&H Fine Wines, The Sourcing Table*

One of the most important wine villages of the Rioja Sonsierra, San Vicente has a variety of soils, from gravel terraces near the Ebro to rockier, poorer soils at higher altitudes. A wine of real refinement: lifted, perfumed, with an expressive palate of summer fruit pudding spiked with cinnamon. Creamy and mouthfilli­ng, deceptivel­y powerful but always sweet and appealing at its core. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.5%

Remelluri, Lindes de Remelluri, Viñedos de Salinillas de Buradón, Rioja 2020 90

£27.50* The Sourcing Table

On the northern slopes of the Sierra de Toloño, Salinillas de Buradón gets its name from its historical associatio­n with salt production, and is the most ‘Atlantic’ in style of the Lindes wines. Red, iron-rich clay soils flecked with quartz give a wine with plummy, midweight fruit, pronounced acidity and lifted floral aromas. The tannins are fine, and there’s a pleasant salt-andpepper edge. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14% D

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