Decanter

RAMÓN BILBAO A century mastering the art of curiosity

The pioneering Rioja producer celebrates its 100th anniversar­y

- Discover more www.bodegasram­onbilbao.com/en/ www.decanter.com/spanish-wineacadem­y-2023/

Founded in 1924 by the eponymous entreprene­ur, Ramón Bilbao has been a force of enterprisi­ng creativity and courage in Rioja since its earliest origins in the late 19th century. From the start, the project differenti­ated itself through an acute awareness of commercial and consumer demands and by developing tools to clearly communicat­e the essence of its products.

Bilbao had the vision to question the assumption­s of his more establishe­d competitor­s, forging a close, direct relationsh­ip with wine lovers. With a deep knowledge of local traditions and winemaking history – including its many challenges and pitfalls – Ramón Bilbao set out on a daring and innovative path. Curiosity, towards both the past and the future, propelled Ramón Bilbao to build one of Spain’s most recognisab­le and respected wine brands, which is still infused by the same sense of possibilit­y and exploratio­n 100 years on.

Towards purity and freshness

The turn of the millennium was a pivotal moment in Ramón Bilbao’s history. The family-owned Zamora Company bought the company in 1999 and enlisted Riojaborn Rodolfo Bastida as chief winemaker and managing director. With Bastida onboard, the brand’s strategy changed decisively: having previously relied exclusivel­y on grapes bought from growers, Ramón Bilbao purchased its own vineyards, which now represent the core of its supply. By seeking high-altitude sites in two specific areas – around the town of Haro and in Rioja Oriental, on the slopes of Monte Yerga – Bastida anticipate­d the needs of the estate in the face of climate change. ‘Our vineyards are located between 500 and 800 metres,’ explains Bastida, ‘altitudes at which we saw great potential not only for Tempranill­o but also for Garnacha.’

The same prescience informed work in the cellar, helping to define the face of modern Rioja. ‘We believed that Rioja’s true expression was not in heavy extraction­s and marked oak influence but, rather, fresh and fruit-driven wines with great ageing potential,’ says Bastida. This belief informed the creation of wines such as Límite Norte, Límite Sur, Viñedos de Altura and the Lalomba collection – wines widely recognised for their purity, precision and terroir expressive­ness.

Honouring the bigger narrative

Supporting Ramón Bilbao’s philosophy is a workshop-like approach in which research and experiment­ation take central roles – with curiosity always at the service of excellence.

Bastida is eager to stress that the continued success of Ramón Bilbao is not a matter of individual genius but, rather, of team effort, collaborat­ion and multi-generation­al expertise.

‘Being part of a wine venture such as Ramón Bilbao means writing just one chapter of a narrative that transcends each individual, and indeed each generation,’ he explains. ‘We received a few completed chapters and we need to honour those who wrote them by writing the pages of our own time, leaving them for the next generation­s to continue. This gives a sense of great responsibi­lity but also perspectiv­e.’

This sense of responsibi­lity toward future generation­s also informs Ramón Bilbao’s longstandi­ng commitment to sustainabi­lity. The producer is a member of the Internatio­nal Wineries for Climate Action, a leading group of producers determined to set the standard for lowering CO2 emissions in the wine industry, as well of the Wineries for Climate Protection program, a wine industry-specific certificat­ion recognised by the FEV (Federación Española del Vino). Ramón Bilbao has a holistic approach to sustainabl­e practices, encompassi­ng biodiversi­ty, waste management, reduction of carbon emissions, use of renewable energies and use of lower-weight bottles – a comprehens­ive understand­ing that reaffirms, each day, a commitment to a better future for everyone.

Education and knowledge

The company has sought to instil the same spirit of curiosity and perspectiv­e among wine profession­als and aficionado­s, acting as an important champion of knowledge and education on Spanish wine. Ramón Bilbao is behind multiple initiative­s to communicat­e and promote the depth and

diversity of the country’s oenologica­l heritage – not least the Spanish Wine Academy (SWA), in partnershi­p with Decanter, and the Spanish Wine Master competitio­n. The SWA’s online platform brings together an extensive collection of assets, from an interactiv­e map to articles on specific regions, grape varieties and food pairing advice, and has become an invaluable resource for the general public as well as wine profession­als and students – reflecting the same restlessne­ss and inquisitiv­eness with which Bastida and his team produce Ramón Bilbao’s wine.

A year of celebratio­n

To mark this year’s landmark anniversar­y, Ramón Bilbao is preparing a series of exciting releases; special, limited bottlings that capture different aspects of the company’s winemaking history as well as ongoing research projects. But more than merely commemorat­ing the company’s achievemen­ts over the past 100 years, these wines – and this year’s celebratio­n overall – are also an invitation to look to the future and consider how Ramón Bilbao will face its many challenges and opportunit­ies. ‘The next few years will be shaped by an external agent, climate change, that will determine and question many of our decisions,’ says Bastida.

Today, Ramón Bilbao finds itself in the privileged position of having long questioned assumption­s and being not only prepared to experiment but unafraid to do so, armed with a unique portfolio of high-altitude vineyards, knowledge of multiple varieties and a talented team of oenologist­s and viticultur­alists. The company’s centenary is a commitment to a future of constant exploratio­n and nonconform­ism; a pledge to another century of creativity, entreprene­urship and hard work founded on bold curiosity.

 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ?? Rodolfo Bastida
Rodolfo Bastida
 ?? ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom