MY TOP 20 SHERRIES
Whether you’re already a committed zealot looking for your next fix or wondering where to begin on your voyage of fortified discovery, take the advice of our expert to experience 20 of the most exquisite and appetising Sherry bottlings currently to be fou
Sherry’s most dramatic moment takes place every other year in Jerez. Top chefs from seven countries, many of them from Michelin-starred establishments, compete to create beautiful three-course menus while squeezed into the most difficult of spaces – the stage of the Villamarta theatre.
Under the proscenium arch, they present their dishes to the judges, while their sommelier partners serve three chosen Sherries and explain the matches. From my own experience in 2019 as a judge at Copa Jerez, I can say it is a delicious task. On that occasion, the winning Danish team paired an unlikely dessert of caramelised banana ice cream with liquorice, olive oil and a coffee sauce, with VOS Pedro Ximénez from Bodegas Tradición. It was a sensation.
Denmark won again in October 2023, and deservedly so – the triumphant team paired its starter of poached prawns with beurre blanc vinegar and marinated rye bread, green celery, sea lettuce and sisho with Bodegas Barón’s Soluqua Manzanilla (£25.95 Worsley Fine Wines).
During the event, outside the theatre it is party time. Sherry bodegas large and small pour wines and the Sherry trade mills about, gossiping and glad-handing. When you’re there, it’s hard to imagine that Sherry has been living through decades of decline. Copa Jerez, this theatrical display, plus the conference and winery visits that surround it, has established itself as one of the pillars rebuilding the image of Sherry.
I’m enthusiastic about signs of growth for Sherry. Much of the inspiration, rule-breaking and creativity comes from the outliers and the small businesses. The big brands have caught up with the message and are following through with their own innovations.
EMBRACING THE NEW
Sherry still retains its classic categories: biologically aged, or oxidatively; young or with many years of age; every gradation from bone dry to intensely sweet. However there have been significant changes. The Sherry ageing area has grown from a ‘triangle’ of towns to more of a cube. More grape varieties are being added or reinstated. Important is the revival of vinos de pasto. These are literally wines to enjoy with food. They are unfortified, they emphasise their terroir origin, and they may have a short time under flor – the best are fine wines in their own right, and a good introduction to Sherry.
My selection in the pages that follow is of Sherries – vinos de pasto need an article all of their own. I have selected wines from practically every category, and from producers large and small. The (dry) manzanillas and finos should be served cool – just how cold depends on your taste. Amontillado and the sweetest Sherries benefit from being served cool. Palo cortado, oloroso and aged Sherries flourish nearer room temperature.
It’s important to enjoy Sherry without feeling bound by tradition. I have put in drinking dates, but again these are very much up to your taste. Top manzanillas and finos can last for a number of years if kept in cool, dark conditions. The oxidative wines are fairly indestructible unopened. Store Sherry upright. Whatever the category of Sherry, serve it in a regular white wine glass.
‘Much of the inspiration, rulebreaking and creativity comes from Sherry’s outliers and the small businesses’
£72.95-£95.50/37.5cl Museum Wines, Shrine to the Vine,
The Whisky Exchange, Thorne Wines
One for lovers of oloroso with intense age, it’s at least 90 years old. Expect intensity, acidity contrasted with bitterness. These adjectives may not charm, but pair the wine with a mature hard cheese and savour the match. Called NO because the butt was taken out of the solera, to follow its own route to maturity and individuality. From a bodega tucked away in the heart of Chiclana town. Drink 2024-2030 Alcohol 22%