Castilla y León treasures: Willard’s dozen to try
1 Dominio del Pidio, Albillo, Ribera del Duero 2022 95
£69 (2021) Salusbury Winestore
A wine that opens up glass by glass, and is worth decanting, this Albillo Mayor is fermented in cement then aged in French oak of varying sizes for six to eight months on lees. It displays the white floral notes and citrus character typical of the variety, as well as a touch of white pepper. A serious wine that reflects its Ribera terroir, grown at higher than 850m in sandy clay-loam soils. Drink 2024-2027 Alcohol 13.5%
2 Ossian, Viñas Viejas de Segovia, Vino de la Tierra 2020 94
£44 The Great Wine Co
An elegant and refined Verdejo from pre-phylloxera (very) old vines north of Segovia. This is a serious expression of the grape with some smoky oak influence from ageing on lees for nine months in 228L-600L barrels. There’s serious complexity and concentration of fruit but the overall impression is subtle and refined. Still young. Organic. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.5%
3 Alvar de Dios, Las Vidres, Vino de la Tierra 2019 93
£60 Fìon Wines
100% Doña Blanca from a town in the very north of the Arribes del Duero growing region southwest of Zamora near the border with Portugal. This is all about texture, mouthfeel… the vibe! Grown on white slate with a lot of mica, this is very flinty and mineral, even a touch waxy. Benefits from opening a few hours before drinking. Drink 2024-2029 Alc 11.5%
El Hato y El Garabato, Otro Cuento, Arribes 2021 92
£24.75 The Vine Whisperer
Another example of Doña Blanca with 5% of the rare Puesta en Cruz. Defined by racy acidity and a mouthwatering finish, this is wild and intense with white pepper, grapefruit and lemon pith, but it is kept in