UKRAINE A wine odyssey
Fully committed and determined is perhaps understating it when it comes to the winemakers of Ukraine. Appearing more widely now in the UK and other markets, theirs are wines that feature familiar grape names along with a whole cast of new varieties, styles and geographies waiting to be discovered
February 2024 marks the second anniversary of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. And though media attention has shifted largely to the Middle East in recent months, the fighting continues, with a colossal impact on the country and its inhabitants.
Amid these geopolitical challenges, Ukrainian winemakers – internationally led by Svitlana Tsybak, CEO of Beykush Winery – are showing resilience and innovation, despite the area planted to vineyards falling from 41,800ha in 2022 to 36,600ha today (source: OIV; Wines of Ukraine).
The country’s leading producers remain undeterred, and even in the throes of war have been travelling abroad to show their wines to an international audience – one that is overhelmingly keen to show its support, and at the same time to discover a new and intriguing wine region. In October last year, a group of 11 producers came together to present the first UK trade tasting of Ukrainian wines, held at private members’ club 67 Pall Mall in London, where about 60 wines of varying styles were shown.
THE HISTORY
When we say ‘new’, of course, we mean new to the wine lover – not in terms of the nation’s heritage. Ukraine’s winemaking roots go all the way back to the 4th century BC and beyond, originating in Crimea. However, it was in the 11th century that wine cultivation kicked off in the northern regions around Kyiv and Chernihiv.
Fast-forward to the 18th and 19th centuries, and wine production soared under the control of Austria-Hungary, Russia and Poland. The modernisation of techniques and the introduction of new grape varieties marked this era.
In recent times, Ukraine, with 2,500km2 of vineyards, was a major supplier of wine to the USSR, especially of Sovetskoye Shampanskoye (Soviet Sparkling Wine). The 1985-1988 antialcohol campaign instigated by then Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev led to the destruction of a significant number of vineyards. However, since 2000, Ukrainian winemakers have rebounded, reaching a deeper understanding of how best to adapt vine-growing to the terroir and climate.
AROUND THE WINE REGIONS
The climate in Ukraine varies from temperate to Mediterranean, with southern Crimea (the peninsula occupied by Russia since its 2014 invasion) basking in fruity ripeness. There are ‘officially’ six wine regions in Ukraine, delineated since Soviet times, but these are now deemed outdated by the producers. The promotional body Ukrainian Wine Company UK (uawines.co.uk) prefers to categorise the country’s land under vine as follows: the Black Sea region (including Odesa, Mykolaiv and Kherson), Bessarabia, Zakarpattia, Zaporizhzhia and Crimea.
The Black Sea region – Odesa (or Odessa), Mykolaiv and Kherson – has 2,500 years of winemaking history. With a blend of continental and maritime climates, this area produces robust reds and traditional sparkling wines. Key varieties include whites Sukholymanske and Telti-Kuruk (see opposite) and a range of international grapes.
Bessarabia, within the Odesa region (see map, p74), champions ancient winemaking traditions, applied to diverse varieties including Citron
‘The country’s leading producers remain undeterred, travelling abroad to show their wines to an international audience’
Magarach, Sukholymanske and Odesa Black (see box, right). The region’s expansive steppes endure humid winters and hot, dry summers, with soils including the renowned Ukrainian black, fertile chernozem soils and mineral-rich loamy grounds.
Zakarpattia (Transcarpathia), bordering Hungary and Slovakia to the west, transitions from white to red wines. The Carpathian mountains create a unique microclimate for vine cultivation, with white varieties Traminer, Furmint, Chersegi (Cserszegi Fűszeres in Hungary) and red Blaufränkisch (also known by synonyms including Blauer Limberger, Kékfrankos, Lemberger or Modra Frankinja) all thriving. The region previously attracted tourists from around the world, with its vineyards, wineries, geothermal spas and ancient castles.
Zaporizhzhia, the smallest wine region with less than 5,000ha of vineyards, holds historical significance. With its shores washed by the Sea of Azov (above the Black Sea: see map, p74), this area enjoys a temperate continental climate with saline and humus-rich chernozem soils. Notable for resort towns, thermal springs and salt mining, it was also the location of the Zaporozhian Sich stronghold, the principal centre of Ukrainian Cossacks. As Decanter was going to press, 70% of ▶
the Zaporizhzhia region, including the majority of vineyards, remained under occupation, with the ongoing Ukrainian counteroffensive maintaining its position.
Crimea, though impacted by the 2014 invasion, remains one of Ukraine’s oldest winemaking regions. The climate is conducive to viticulture, with soils ranging from marl to chernozem.
IN DEFIANCE
Most of the new wineries that have sprung up in Ukraine in the last five years are located in cool-climate areas. These developing, and ‘unofficial’ wine regions – (west to east) Lviv, Ternopil, Khmelnitsky, Vinnitsa Kyiv, Chernihiv, Dnipro and Kharkiv – produce high-acidity and
‘The international exposure has become a lifeline for Ukrainian winemakers’
aromatic white wines and very bright rosés. Some winemakers are trying their hand at producing amber and sparkling wines, too.
Experimentation is widespread, even while the winemakers navigate the unprecedented challenges caused by war. Wines are emerging produced by varied approaches, ranging from ancient Georgian techniques such as qvevri, to the most modern methods. And, with the country in the spotlight, even if for tragic reasons, the world is taking notice.
The international exposure has become a lifeline for Ukrainian winemakers, with heightened interest coming from new and returning customers. The stories they have to tell resonate with resilience and hope, offering a glimpse into the promising future of Ukrainian wines. Ukraine’s indomitable spirit is bottled, and waiting to be shared with the world.