FIVE KEY UKRAINIAN PRODUCERS TO KNOW
Beykush This family-owned winery spans 14ha and is located just 2km from the occupied area. In Chernomorka village, on the Beykush peninsula by the Black Sea, it embraces French, Italian and Georgian clones alongside the rare Telti-Kuruk grape (see box, p73). From traditionalmethod sparkling to amphora-aged wines, its experimentation captures the essence of this special terroir. beykush.com
Bolgrad Established in 1998 by the Markushevskiy and Maslenkov families, Bolgrad Winery embodies three generations of winemaking expertise. Thanks to their proximity to the Black Sea, the vineyards benefit from a microclimate that imbues the wines with salinity and freshness. With more than 600ha under vine, Bolgrad produces about 6 million bottles annually. bolgrad.wine
Kolonist Founded in 2005 in Bessarabia (the south of the Odesa region), Kolonist Winery, owned by the Plachkov family, has a range that runs from classic aged whites to indigenous specialities such as Odesa Black and Sukholymanske white. Co-owner Hryhoriy Plachkov’s military service experience is reflected in the winery’s tenacity. kolonist.com.ua
Shabo Founded in 1822 by Swiss settlers, southwest of Odesa, Shabo is now operated by a Georgian winemaking family. Despite the war’s challenges, especially around Odesa, and disrupted work shifts due to air raid sirens, Shabo continues to craft wines from its modern winery near the Black Sea – its cellars of almost 5,000m2 are among the largest in Ukraine, and can hold more than 13 million bottles. The team works with international varieties, but also varieties originating from the wider region, such as Saperavi, and specifically from Ukraine, including Telti-Kuruk. shabo.ua
TM Villa Tinta or Vinhol Oksamitnoe
A family estate winery since 1998 with 500ha of vines planted, situated in the historic winemaking district of Bolgrad, which is in southern Ukraine, in the Odesa region near the Black Sea and the border with Romania (see map, above).
The sub-tropical climate is tempered by lake Yalpuh. It works with a wide range of grapes including Sukholymanske and Odesa. villatinta.com.ua
1 Shabo, Classic Brut, Odesa 2020 89
£24 Other World Wines
A traditional-method sparkling made from equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, bottle-fermented for 18 months. The nose is elegantly biscuity, with hints of peach, citrus, grapefruit and a touch of mandarin peel. The bubbles are refined and highlight the refreshing acidity. Rounded on the finish with a subtle warmth that emerges without overshadowing the ensemble of flavours. Drink 2024-2025 Alcohol 13.5%
Bolgrad, Reserve Chardonnay, Odesa 2022 92
£16.95-£17.50 Swig, The Good Wine Shop,
The Whisky Exchange
A rich Chardonnay that kicks off lush and buttery with a touch of toast. Sleek and elegant, it unveils juicy red apple and melon fruit with a splash of tropical and floral flair, and just a hint of cool muskiness. Crisp, bright acidity lays down a vibe that grooves through a long, firm and refreshingly saline finish. Balanced complexity and style, with a promise of more to come. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 13%
2 Beykush, Amphora Rkatsiteli, Mykolaiv 2022 90
£27.95 Ukrainian Wine Company UK Aged in a 400-litre Spanish ceramic amphora for one month, this wine is focused and bright, yet possesses depth. It exudes the aromas of white flowers, garden herbs, Earl Grey tea, beeswax, nuts, lemon peel and quince. Approachable and youthful, it captures the essence of a sunlit garden, beautifully blending structure and terroir. Drink 2024 Alc 13.5%
3 Bolgrad, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Odesa 2020 91
£16.95-£17.50 Swig, The Good Wine Shop,
The Whisky Exchange
Alive, youthful and vibrant, showing notes of quince and blackberry, figs, chocolate, bramble and vanilla that create a nuanced blend of flavours. The bright acidity brings order to a lively palate, medium-weight with discreet tannins. A hint of Christmas spice lingers on the finish, contributing to an overall experience that’s both enjoyable and satisfying, with a delightful balance. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 13.5%
Shabo, Other World Wines, Saperavi & Merlot Qvevri, Odesa 2020 91
£23 Other World Wines
Benefiting from the warmth of Odesa’s sun, this wine reveals subtle hints of paprika spice and freshly cut tobacco. The palate unfolds with the succulence of ripe plum, savoury black cherry and the playful tartness of raspberry, all interwoven with a touch of frankincense and embraced by soft tannins. Well balanced and moreish. Drink 2024-2025 Alc 14%
Beykush, Artania Red, Mykolaiv 2022 90
£20.95 Ukrainian Wine Company UK
From vineyards nestling on a flat plateau between the Buzky and Berezan estuaries, this delightful blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Tempranillo captures the essence of Ukraine’s brighter days. Fresh and vibrant with forest floor notes, red cherry, redcurrant and a touch of garden herbs, its freshness and juiciness is accentuated by a gentle tannin presence. A taste that embodies Ukraine’s vivacious spirit. Drink 2024 Alc 13.5%