FIVE OF THE BEST New-wave vodkas

Vodka was once rated only for its purity of taste, but producers have been taking cues from gin distillers, working with distinctive base materials and botanicals to add character to their drinks. Here’s a selection of my favourites from recent tastings.

1 Altamura Distilleries Vodka

£30.95/70cl Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange Altamura is an ancient wheat variety that has been grown in Italy’s Puglia region – specifically in the commune of Altamura and others around it – for more than 2,000 years, and it’s the essential ingredient in the local DOP Pane di Altamura bread. It’s also the base of this decadently creamy vodka, which kicks off with aromas of vanilla, bright lemon citrus and lemon tart. Clean and crisp, with flavours of cream soda, vanilla gelato, citrus zest and dry, black pepper-led spice. So sippable… ideal for a Vodka Martini. Alcohol 43%

2 Desi Daru Mango

£34.95-£45/70cl Amazon, Drink Supermarket, Gerry’s, Harvey Nichols, The Whisky Exchange Created by British-born Indians Mohit and Aneet Singh, Desi Daru draws on both cultures using a base of English winter wheat and Himalayan mountain water. Their Mango variant is blended with juice from fresh Alphonso mangoes – the variety known in India as the king of mangoes – grown in Maharashtra’s Ratnagiri district. Beautifully made: there’s nothing confected here, just piles of luscious, fresh, ripe mango on the nose and smooth palate, alongside hints of coconut ice cream, toasted almond, spices and a touch of grassy freshness. Alc 41%

3 Holy Grass Vodka

£33.99-£40/70cl Amazon, Craft Bottle Shop, Distillers Direct, Drambusters, Dunnet Bay, Good Time In, Rosemount Market, The Good Spirits Co, Yumbles

Martin and Claire Murray of Scotland’s Dunnet Bay Distillers produce the excellent Rock Rose Gin, using botanicals including Rhodiola rosea (rock rose) grown locally in Caithness. Their small-batch vodka is made with sweetly scented Anthoxanthum nitens,

called holy grass locally but also known as bison grass in countries such as Poland, where it’s used in the popular Zubrówka Bison Grass Vodka. The nose offers grassy, heather florals – like walking over the Highlands on a windy day. Herbs, grasses and spice on the palate, with a creamy shortbread biscuit note, too, plus a long botanical finish. Alc 41.5%

4 Pod Pea Vodka

£35.99-£47.99/70cl Distillers Direct, Gerry’s, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange, Tipples of Manchester

A perfect choice as we look ahead to spring, Pod is made in Manchester from a base of fermented British peas and is bursting with fresh green notes. Aromas of cooked peas and fresh green veg, herbal, creamy hints and a touch of spice. The palate is loaded with pea shoots and hints of milk chocolate, florality and leafy herbs, with a crisp finish. Eco-credentials are high, too: the peas are from Somerleyton Farm in Suffolk, which practises regenerative agriculture, while production and bottling are sustainable. It’s surprisingly great in a Bloody Mary. Alc 40%

Ukiyo 5

£36.79-£47.90/70cl Amazon, House of Malt, Master of Malt, Spiritly, Spirits24, The Bottle Club, The Tipple Cellar, The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky World This distinctive and beautifully bottled Japanese vodka is made in Okinawa from long grain rice, which is first distilled into traditional awamori spirit, then redistilled into vodka. The fragrant nose is reminiscent of sake, with warm floral notes and yuzu citrus. It’s spicy in the mouth, with notes of liquorice, lavender, violet and citrus zest. Try it with London Essence Original Indian Tonic Water instead of your usual G&T; a perfect vodka for sake fans. Alc 40%