Decanter

A taste of Ata Rangi: Jenkins’ pick of the range

Craftsmen of terroir, leading the way in one of Spain’s most revered regions.

-

1 Ata Rangi, Masters Chardonnay 2021 93

atarangi.co.nz

A little more upfront and generous than the 2020, but with the same nutty/white peach profile, and minerally-savoury persona. A flick of pink grapefruit reduction here, too. Palate has a taut, citrussy style, bright acidity and good concentrat­ion and length. Needs more time to properly open up and relax. Drink 2024-2032 Alcohol 13%

2 Ata Rangi, Potiki Chardonnay 2021 92

atarangi.co.nz

A slight change in emphasis from the

2020, a cooler expression with more obvious citrus notes on the nose, plus sizzled butter, nuts and a hint of oak spice. Lithe and silky, lemony fresh, perhaps just a touch less concentrat­ed than the 2020 but that’s being picky. Drinking nicely now, no great hurry. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13.5%

Ata Rangi, Masters Pinot Noir 2020 95

£94.99 Liberty Wines

Very upfront with lots of spice and florals (this wine is winemaker Helen Masters’ ‘Negroni’), but there’s a savoury, quite brooding presence beneath it all – forest floor and bloody meat. Complete and consistent from start to finish, this is not a big wine but it has plenty of presence. Dry, structured finish, very long. 65% whole bunch. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%

Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir 2020 94

£71.99 Fortnum & Mason, Mann Fine Wine, Noble Green, NY Wines

Very perfumed and pretty, with orange blossom, cloves and lots of bright fruit – more red than black. An earthy spiciness emerges with time in the glass. Quite taut across the palate with delicacy and finesse that belies the concentrat­ion (and exuberant nose). Fine silky tannins and a good build to the finish. A baby. 40% whole bunch. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.9%

3 Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir 2019 94

£67.99 Hedonism, Mann Fine Wine, Philglas & Swiggot, The Wine Reserve

Bright and lively, with red fruits, Campari spice, earth and a lovely floral lift. Youthful and very compact in structure, this is still fairly shy but with a juicy core of fruit and a delicate thread of firm tannins. Needs time to open up, but this is sure-footed and supple, with plenty of concentrat­ion and length. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%

Ata Rangi, Abel Old Vines Pinot Noir 2019 93

atarangi.co.nz

A much more buttoned-down nose; sweet hay but not the usual florals. Subtle cherry, blackberry, redcurrant notes, dark cocoa, earthy, very compact with a firm, dry and concentrat­ed palate. Light on its feet but there’s no mistaking the tannin backbone. Good length. Not as immediatel­y expressive as the Estate, but seems just as complex. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.5%

4 Ata Rangi, Kotinga Pinot Noir 2020 93

£94.99 Liberty Wines, Winesquare

Kotinga is the most free-draining of the single vineyards. More earth, spice and a darker fruit profile than the Estate. In many ways an archetypal Martinboro­ugh Pinot. Generous black cherry/strawberry-rich palate with structured tannins and bright acidity keeping it fresh. A Campari-like twist on the long finish. 40% whole bunch; aged in foudre. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13.7%

5 Ata Rangi, McCrone Pinot Noir 2020 92

£94.99 Liberty Wines, Winesquare

Paler than the Masters and Kotinga. A pretty, perfumed nose with lovely orange blossom notes. The palate is fine and silky, but its ripe-fruit core has a distinct savoury edge and it’s more structured than the nose suggests. Quite sappy tannins need a touch more resolution – the whole-bunch element (40%) is more obvious in this wine than the other 2020s. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 14%

As one of the founding producers of DO Ribera del Duero, Linaje Garsea remains at the region’s forefront. The family-owned estate – establishe­d in 1888 in the province of Toledo and now with its third generation at the helm – is a true pioneer of the renowned DO, having led the way by focusing on terroir diversity and low interventi­on winemaking.

Distinctiv­e terroirs

The character of Linaje Garsea’s wines is very much shaped by the distinctiv­eness of its terroirs. In Valdecobos, one of the appellatio­n’s most renowned internal valleys, Linaje Garsea’s vines grow on mineral-rich clay soils, delivering fruit with incredible balance between freshness and aromatic power.

In Aranda, on the other hand, the vineyards surroundin­g the producer’s winery, planted along the River Duero on alluvial soils, deliver deeper expression­s of Tinta del País (the local expression of Tempranill­o). Handled carefully in the cellar – with minimal SO2 additions, natural fermentati­ons and only light filtration­s – the fruit is allowed to carry its full expression into the bottle.

A modern interpreta­tion

A total of 71 hectares, all estate-owned, provide the raw material for Linaje Garsea’s modern interpreta­tion of Ribera del Duero, at the intersecti­on of tradition and innovation. While positionin­g itself as one of the region’s leading wineries, Linaje Garsea does so in an unpretenti­ous and approachab­le way, seeking to make the uniqueness of its terroirs and the excellence of its winemaking available to all. Linaje Garsea Crianza is perhaps the most representa­tive of the winery’s labels – an approachab­le, modern yet classic example of Ribera del Duero. The winery has been able to consolidat­e its position among profession­als and consumers alike by offering the winning combinatio­n of quality alongside value. Its Crianza is the epitome of this balancing act.

Accomplish­ed vintages

Meanwhile, the most exclusive of Linaje Garsea’s creations is the Archangelu­s Gabrighel collection, a triptych of Tinta del País wines, yielded by the same vintage and plots (a selection of sites at least 60 years old) aged in oaks of different origins: American, Spanish and French.

Linaje Garsea also offers a library of particular­ly accomplish­ed back vintages – such as 2004, 2009 and 2010 – that show how the producer’s wines can still display Tinta del País in full splendour many years on. Building on complexity and nuance, they retain a vibrant fruit core and tannic poise that reflect both its ethos and the essence of Ribera del Duero.

Linaje Garsea’s wines demonstrat­e its expertise at capturing the spirit of the region, which can be fully experience­d at its onsite hotel and asador (an institutio­n in its own right) too. The winery invites guests to immerse themselves in the history and terroir that have shaped its identity.

Discover more https://linajegars­ea.com/

 ?? ?? Ata Rangi vineyard manager Ian Ewart
Ata Rangi vineyard manager Ian Ewart
 ?? ?? 4
4
 ?? ?? 3
3
 ?? ?? 5
5
 ?? ?? 2
2
 ?? ?? 1
1
 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom