Improving with age: six delectable Cognacs and Armagnacs

1 Frapin Château de Fontpinot XO, 100th Anniversaire, Cognac

£150/70cl Berry Bros & Rudd, Master of Malt, The Whisky Exchange

From the resurrected 1923 label to the superlative blending, everything about this just oozes class. Heady hedgerow florals, luscious tropical fruit, toasted almond/hazelnut and just a whisper of elusive rancio. All that’s best about Cognac in one glass. Alcohol 41%

2 Jean Fillioux Très Vieux XO Extra Grande Champagne, Cognac

£77-£81.49/70cl Master of Malt, Shop4Whisky.com, The Whisky Studio

The familial links with Hennessy fade into insignificance here. For roughly half the price of Hennessy XO you get a fragrant, elegant, expressive Cognac of rare breadth and complexity. Ridiculous value. Alc 40%

3 Maxime Trijol XO Classic, Cognac

£90.50-£120/70cl Widely available Plenty of powerful spice and oak tannin up front, along with classic notes of ripe citrus and creamy vanilla. The mid-palate is explosively fragrant and round, with a little menthol tension. A benchmark XO at a good price. Alc 40%

4 Baron de Sigognac 25 Year Old, Armagnac

£141-£154/70cl Widely available

A blending masterclass combining the grippy power of Baco with silky, fruit-forward Ugni Blanc. Great age brings aromas of cigar leaf and walnut, together with dark honey and banana bread. There’s structure here, but also a beguiling texture and a pleasing finish of white chocolate. Alc 40%

5 Château de Bordeneuve 1989, Armagnac

£100/70cl The Wright Wine Co

Unusually bottled ‘brut de fût’, or at cask strength, the surprise here is the elegance. Ugni Blanc, with its scented flowers and zesty citrus, is to the fore, alongside light baking spices and a little vanilla. Smooth, powerful and perfect for cocktails. Alc 49%

6 Darroze Les Grands Assemblages 20 Year Old, Armagnac

£84.95-£93.99/70cl Widely available Although famed for its singleproperty vintage releases, Darroze has a formidable range of age-stated blends, including this exemplary combination of sweet, stewed plums and apples alongside cinnamondusted raisins and sultanas, plus a little curry spice pep. Alc 43%