Decanter

Pálffy Manor in the Small Carpathian­s (Malokarpat­ská)

The Small Carpathian­s, home to half of Slovakia’s wine producers, bear witness to the nation’s ancient wine culture and its turbulent journey

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Slovakia’s winemaking legacy, primarily rooted in its southern regions and continenta­l climate, unveils a rich history within the Small Carpathian­s region, dating back to the 12th century. Iconic settlement­s like Modra, Pezinok and Svätý Jur evolved into free royal cities by the 17th century.

Although records first mention Svätý Jur in 1209, archaeolog­ical finds here date back to the Neolithic period. Traces of an 800 BC Hallstatt settlement remain, as do a 9th century Great Moravian hillfort.

Despite facing destructio­n by Tatars and King of Bohemia Přemysl Otakar II in the mid to late 13th century, Svätý Jur transforme­d into a landowning, self-governing town, including among its number a richtár (delegated office holder), sworn servants and a vineyard master. Alongside Pezinok, Svätý Jur became the seat of the counts and the economic centre of their estates, reaching the pinnacle of being a free royal town in 1647.

Svätý Jur’s viticultur­al prominence as a Riesling paradise, with its 5,588ha of vineyards, is enhanced by VIAJUR. Embracing this legacy, VIAJUR produces two exquisite Rieslings, Jurský Riesling and Riesling Liebling, both capturing the essence of Svätý Jur’s terroir.

The region’s diverse soils, with heavier loamy soils in the southeast and lighter, sandy loam to stony soils in the northwest, hold significan­t sway over the final wine.

The southweste­rn slopes, particular­ly in Svätý Jur, showcase a distinct character, benefiting from welldraini­ng granitic and sandy soils that allow deep root penetratio­n for the vines.

The historic Pálffy Manor, standing as a sentinel to 700 years of viticultur­al tradition, is now home to the thriving VIAJUR winery. Notable historical reconstruc­tions and the influence of figures like Katarína Pálffy in the 16th century have intertwine­d the manor’s story with the broader context of the Habsburg era. Today, VIAJUR, under the guidance of winemaker Tomáš Dilong, brings a fresh perspectiv­e, producing 150,000 bottles of white, rosé, red, sparkling and dessert wines each year. The commitment to quality, underscore­d by sustainabl­e practices and a chemical and preservati­ve-free approach, narrates a tale of prosperity and dedication to Slovakian winemaking.

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