KLINE’S PICK: a taste across the By Farr portfolio
1 By Farr, GC Côte Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 98
£91.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Shelved Wine, The Cellarhand, Winesquare
A tribute to founder Gary Charles Farr that melds immense power with masterful finesse. Cedary oak settles into lime, white nectarine, grapefruit and talc. The palate is mineral and taut. Ripe lime, nectarine and white peach are framed by pithy, chalky phenolics and waves of lime-drenched acidity, bringing cut to an oily texture. Seemingly endless length through the palate. Drink 2026-2034 Alcohol 13.5%
By Farr, Chardonnay 2022 96
£72.99 Carruthers & Kent, Elementary Wine Co, Shelved Wine, Winesquare
There’s restrained power aromatically, with white peach, grapefruit, subtle nuttiness, a glimmer of quince paste, cedar and a shot of mineral drive bringing freshness. There’s power to the palate, too, which is chalky and sapid. It bursts with white florals, white peach and nectarine before a pithy acid line asserts itself. From the Sangreal vineyard, a powerful and wonderfully mineral expression. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13.5%
2 By Farr, Viognier 2022 94
£71.99 Carruthers & Kent, Winesquare
A Viognier of immediate impact and appeal, this is perfumed, fresh and detailed, showing aromas of apple, apricot and peach fruits with ginger spice backed by pithy minerals and white florals. There’s a burst of apricot, ginger and peach through the mid-palate before it’s pulled into linear focus for a long, mineral, citrus-drenched finish. Impeccable balance of tension and weight. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13%
3 By Farr, Tout Près Pinot Noir 2021 98
£102.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Elementary Wine Co, Winesquare
Enthralling from the get-go, with its aromas of twiggy spice, menthol and red cherry making way for subtle smoke, minerals and superbly integrated sweet cedary oak. The palate is compact and cool with plum, forest floor and tilled earth kept linear and furled by an assertive structure. There’s lift and glide, buoyancy and brightness, with a dark core beneath. An exceptional Pinot Noir of immense charm and compelling complexity. Drink 2027-2036 Alc 13%
By Farr, Sangreal Pinot Noir 2021 97
£84.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Natty Boy Wines, Vin Cognito, VinQuinn, Winesquare Sangreal sees 70% whole-bunch fruit and 70% new oak for 18 months. Vegetal aromas with twiggy spice, forest floor, black cherry and woodsmoke. Black cherry and spice to the palate, with cooling ferrous mineral notes, tight-but-fine tannins, and seemingly endless waves of acidity. Compact and fine, with density, firm structure and impressive length. Patience in the cellar will reward. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 13%
4 By Farr, RP Côte Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 96
£102.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, VinQuinn
A tribute to the matriarch, Robyn Pamela Farr. Elegant and perfumed with sweet strawberry and red cherry lift straight off, and ripe raspberry and gentle spice to follow. Buoyant and vibrant palate, with immediate appeal, though not at the expense of depth or complexity. Suave, seductive and open, with red cherry, strawberry, red plum and five spice. A fleshy, fulsome wine with a great balance of fruit weight and power preceding a long finish. Drink 2025-2031 Alc 13%
By Farr, Farrside Pinot Noir 2021 95
£71.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Natty Boy Wines, Shelved Wine, Wine Delivered, Winesquare
The Farrside sees about 60% new oak for 18 months, and the 2021 is superbly complex and lifted aromatically. Green pea, bramble, savoury spice, game meat and rhubarb, freshened by macerated strawberry. The palate has lovely lift and glide, and a cooling mineral feel. Cherry, earth and forest floor are wrapped up in tangy acid and fine, persistent tannins, leading to an earthy close. At once elegant and brooding. Drink 2026-2031 Alc 13.5%
5 By Farr, Shiraz 2021 95
£71.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Carruthers & Kent, Shelved Wine, VinQuinn, Winesquare
Made using 20% whole-bunch Shiraz co-fermented with about 4% Viognier and then matured for 18 months in oak, 20% new. There are green bean, pepper spice and menthol aromas at the fore, making way for blackberries and game meat. Then it has a cooling mineral feel in the mouth, with meat, pepper, earth and dark fruit melding beautifully across the palate. A wondrously long finish is helped along by lively acidity and svelte, earthy tannins. Drink 2026-2031 Alc 13.5%