Mosca’s selection: seven food-friendly Lambruscos
1 Cantina della Volta, 36 Brut,
Lambrusco di Sorbara 2015 94
£40.95 Penzer Wines
This traditional-method wine spends more than 36 months on lees. Classified as red but closer to a dark rosé, its candied raspberry and potpourri aromas mingle with autolysis-derived notes of amaretto biscuits, cinnamon and flint. Piercing acids complement wild strawberries; salinity and a precise mousse shape a lively finish that recalls richer styles of rosé Champagne. Drink 2024-2030 Alcohol 12.5%
2 Paltrinieri, Radice Secco, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2022 93
£15.95 Tannico†
A captivating light pink colour matches pretty aromas of white currants, yellow peaches, wild roses and spicy herbs. The mouthfeel is bone-dry and almost chalky, and there are mouthwatering flavours of blood orange and tart berries allied to invigorating minerals and a light but lively mousse. A 2021 tasted alongside proved it will show even better with a few more months in bottle. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 11%
3 Medici Ermete, Concerto Brut, Lambrusco Reggiano 2022 92
£14-£15.75 Hedonism, Lekker Wines, St Andrews Wine Co, VinumTerra, WineTrust
Very inky, almost purple-ish – as is typical of Lambrusco Salamino grown in the Reggiano area – the aromas recall dark cherries, violets and carob, with a subtle herbal smack. Structured but also light on its feet, this has a savoury, foamy and slightly tannic attack, followed by smoother flavours of candied cherry and cocoa, a kick of pepper enlivening the moreish finish. Organic. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 11.5%
Fattoria Moretto, Monovitigno Secco, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro NV 91
US$28-$32 Somm Cellars, Verve Wine
A textbook Charmat-method Grasparossa, this displays a deep ruby colour and varietally accurate aromas of strawberries, sweet cherries, liquorice and violet pastille. The palate is smooth and fruit-forward yet bone-dry, with a pinpoint mousse, light but impactful tannins and a floral touch framing juicy red cherries on the polished finish. Organic. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 12%
4 Cleto Chiarli, Centenario Amabile, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro NV 91
US$14-$20 Widely available via US importer Frederick Wildman
The oldest producer in Emilia, Cleto Chiarli is better known for producing high-quality
Lambrusco Secco, but this Grasparossa Amabile is just as captivating. Round and creamy but not cloying, it has touches of pepper and cinnamon that complicate cherry jam flavours, while excellent acidity keeps the residual sugar in balance, underpinning a savoury and slightly grippy finish. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 8%
5 Cavicchioli, Vigna del Cristo Secco, Lambrusco di Sorbara 2022 91
US$18 Winetransit From one of the most highly regarded vineyards in the Sorbara area. Secondary fermentation occurs in autoclaves for this wine, which exhibits a salmon-peach colour that anticipates delicate aromas of strawberry jam, pomegranate seeds and peony. Palate-cleansing acidity and a light effervescence lead, followed by tangy minerals and airy echoes of wild roses and pink grapefruit. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 11%
Cantina Ventiventi, Metodo Classico Brut, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce 2020 90
ventiventi.it
This family-run organic winery became fully operational in 2020. The wine spends about 18 months on its lees, and boasts a deep ruby colour that anticipates aromas of sour cherries and violets mingling with smoky and nutty nuances. Slightly rustic but very characterful, its crisp acids and nicely frothy mousse add to its vibrancy, leading to a tangy finish. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 12%