Quality fizz from unexpected regions
Traditional-method sparkling wines come from regions you might not expect. First, from the dry southeastern corner of Wales, Ancre Hill Estates, Blanc de Noirs NV (£38-£45 Widely available via independent merchants) achieved great intensity plus saltwater taffy complexity through long élevage of the base wine (16 months) and four years on lees. Shabo, from the Black Sea coastal Odessa region in Ukraine, only just disgorged its 2015 zero-dosage Grand Cuvée in February; that, along with 60% new oak on the base wine, gives a creamy nose with plenty of buttery texture, ending with umami and almonds. From the eastern foothills of Helan mountain in China’s Ningxia province, new producer Devo’s first vintage release, the 2018, hints at the sun-drenched region’s potential to make sophisticated sparkling wines: four years on lees without dosage, showcasing ripe peach and caramelised apple combined with leesy structure and good freshness. Finally, from the heart of the Yamanashi prefecture in Japan, Grace Wine’s Ayana Misawa handcrafts a premium-quality Blanc de Blancs from its Misawa vineyard 700m above sea level. The 2016 vintage spent five years on lees and two years under cork, and boasts profound yeasty depth and solid yellow fruits.