Golden age: 10 top wines that showcase old vines
Miguel Merino, Blanco 2021 94
£35-£38 (2020) Davy’s, Holy Spirits, Lockett Bros Miguel Merino’s first white, launched in 2016, reveals a broad confidence. The Garnacha (50%) was planted in 1946, and the Viura (50%) comes from his oldest parcels. Merino manages the temperature by laboriously moving the barrels out of the winery overnight. The wine is complex in character, with citrus, fresh herbs and youthful fruit, and a rounded, stony finish. Drink 2024-2027 Alcohol 13.5%
1 Amaren, 60 Malvasía 2020 91
£33.95-£35 (2019) NY Wines, The Dorset Wine Co Malvasía in Rioja has nothing to do with the aromatic Malvasías of the Mediterranean. This is Alarije (also known as Subirat Parent and Rojal in other parts of Spain), which gives a fleshier, more textured character. Jon Cañas is using vines of some 60 years with fruit that has a pinkish tinge, hence the more developed colour. Fermented in a concrete egg and matured on its lees, it’s a textured wine with notes of ripe fruit, fennel and dried flowers. Drink 2024-2028 Alc 14%
2 Artuke, La Condenada 2021 97
£84.95-£85 Lea & Sandeman, The Sampler
I still have vivid memories of my visit to La Condenada: such a very singular parcel of bush vines planted in 1920, each individual characters, each of them survivors. The vineyard and the wine are a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha and the white Calagraño. Fermentation in 600-litre oak and careful ageing leads to a pure, fresh wine with fine tannins for elegant ageing. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14%
3 Castillo de Cuzcurrita, Tilo 2020 96
£138 (2016) Christopher Keiller
Tilo has a remarkably restrained label for its power, and its status as Cuzcurrita’s top wine, from a single parcel planted at 610m in 1947. In that sense it matches the unshowy brilliance of its winemaker Ana Martín, whose Cerrado del Castillo was one of Decanter’s Top Wines of 2023. Dense, full of powerful black fruit, with firm, wellcontrolled tannins and an Atlantic freshness. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 14.5%
4 Dominio del Challao, Challao 2020 96
£167 Vinissimus
Dominio del Challao is a relatively new project and definitely one to watch. Based on old vines (majority 1945) from around Labastida, this is 85% Tempranillo with Garnacha, Mazuelo, Viura and Garnacha Blanca. It’s matured for 20 months in 500-litre oak, which, as winemaker Manu Michelini explains, is intended to reflect the region’s traditional wines: leaner, purer and less plush than 21st-century exuberance. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13%
5 Bodegas Bhilar, Phinca Abejera 2017 94
£43.65-£45.37 Christopher Keiller, The Fine Wine Co From a vineyard planted in 1932, David Sampedro has created a bold blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha and Viura. No single variety stands out, but together they create a dense, dark harmony, full of spice and energy, held together by a firm expression of oak. Biodynamic. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 14.5%
Juan Carlos Sancha, Peña el Gato Garnacha 2020 94
£21 WoodWinters
Juan Carlos Sancha is an expert on the data and history of Rioja’s old vines, and can draw on his family’s old vines parcel. This, from centenarian Garnacha, apparently gets its name (‘the cat’s rock’) from the fact that the vineyard is so high (750m), cold and remote that only cats go up there (or so the story goes). Dense with black fruits, wild herbs and fine oak. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 15%
Sierra de Toloño, Tereseño 2019 94
£40.50 Lea & Sandeman
Sandra Bravo has worked in wineries all over the world but it’s no wonder she was drawn back to her native Rioja and its old vines. Tereseño is an enticing expression of Garnacha, planted in 1944 at 700m. Now fermented in amphora (originally it saw some oak), this organic wine has a thrilling purity of fruit. Drink 2024-2029 Alc 14.5%
Tentenublo, Escondite del Ardacho El Abundillano 2017 94
£40.95 Lea & Sandeman
El Abundanillo is one of a series that Roberto Oliván is releasing under the Escondite del Ardacho label. It comes from a 90-year-old vineyard at Viñaspre, and is a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Malvasía. With its subtle oak maturation, the wine is alive with sweet spices and succulent cherries, balanced by a fine freshness. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 14.5%
José Gil, San Vicente de la Sonsierra 2021 91
£32 Bowes Wine
José Gil’s family owns parcels of old vines scattered across San Vicente de la Sonsierra. This dense, plump wine with plenty of juice and supple tannnins is a blend of five parcels, farmed biodynamically and fermented half in concrete and half in old French oak foudres. Seek out Gil’s parcel wines too, especially the elegant La Canoca. Drink 2024-2028 Alc 13.5%