Derby Telegraph

Brut strengths

Want to know which Champagne pairs perfectly with the turkey at lunch or the cheeseboar­d after dinner? SAM WYLIE-HARRIS asks an expert to help us drink the most indulgent of tipples all Christmas Day

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IT MAY sound extravagan­t, but we’re firm believers that there’s a bubbly out there to suit every minute of the day. And with a host of champagne styles to match the great fanfare of the festive feast, you can pop the corks from dawn ‘til dusk at Christmas, if you like.

Whether it’s a plate of smoked salmon, a bronzed bird or sliver of blue cheese you’re tucking into, the spectrum of sparkle can be as fine, powerful or meaty as the medley of food being served.

“What better excuse than Christmas Day to drink champagne from start to finish? Champagne is a very flexible drink and it can fit nicely around the set food traditions, making for inspired pairings,” says David Hesketh, master of wine at Champagne Laurent-Perrier.

To perfect your pouring prowess, this December 25, David shares his top tips...

WITH CHRISTMAS EVE CANAPES

“WHAT better way to start the festive celebratio­ns than with a good non-vintage with the canapes?” suggests David. Try: Champagne Laurent-Perrier La Cuvee Brut, £42.99, Majestic

WITH CHRISTMAS DAY BRUNCH

“OPT for something light, fresh and elegant for mid-morning sipping,” says David. “A lot of champagne aficionado­s ask if it’s OK to serve Bucks Fizz. As long as it’s fresh orange juice and good champagne, of course it is!”

WHAT TO DRINK WITH THE CHRISTMAS TURKEY

“TURKEY and all of the trimmings requires a champagne with more weight and flavour concentrat­ion, suggesting vintage rather than non-vintage champagne,” says David.

“Many vintage champagnes on the market are around eight to 10 years old and will have been aged longer at the cellar, giving greater complexity and ability to complement an indulgent Christmas day feast.” Try: Champagne Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2009, £52, Clos 19, pictured left.

WITH ALTERNATIV­E ROAST MEATS, SUCH AS GOOSE

“MOST people associate rosé with al fresco summer moments, however LaurentPer­rier Cuvee Rosé is the perfect accompanim­ent to meats such as goose.

Made from pinot noir grapes, the brief maceration of juice on skins gives an attractive rosé colour, while the acidity and tannin cut through richness of the meat,” explains David. “What’s more, Cuvee Rosé is the perfect celebrator­y serve and the bottle makes for a great Christmas table centrepiec­e.” Try: Champagne Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé Brut NV, £60, Waitrose.com

WITH DESSERT

“SELECT a light champagne with some sweetness to counterbal­ance the richness of Christmas pudding,” David suggests. Try: Taittinger Nocturne Champagne, reduced to £28 from £35, Tesco, pictured right.

WITH THE CHEESE BOARD

“CHAMPAGNE is not often considered a successful food match alongside cheese, and usually for good reason as cheese can easily overpower a delicate champagne. However, with a little thought, it can surprise,” says David.

“Stock up on a dry champagne, such as an Ultra Brut/Brut Nature (no added sugar). The marked acidity and prolonged ageing make it suitable for serving alongside lighter blue cheeses and firmer alpine cheeses.” Try: Ayala Brut Nature (Zero Dosage) NV Champagne, £28.39, DrinksDire­ct.co.uk

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Champagne LaurentPer­rier La Cuvee Brut, £42.99, Majestic is a great choice with canapes
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