LANDMARK WITH CAFE CULTURE
Nicola Rippon details the chequered past of the Jacobean House in Derby’s Wardwick, once a favoured haunt for those big occasions
THE Jacobean House in the Wardwick is one of Derby’s most familiar buildings. It has had a somewhat chequered history, but for older Derbeians, it is synonymous with a more genteel time and special occasions.
For nearly 50 years, the Jacobean House Café was one of the town’s favourite special places where treats could be had in salubrious surroundings.
The house was built either in 1611 or 1677 – the lettering on its date mark is tricky to read. If the earlier date is correct, which it is generally thought to be, it is most likely Derby’s first brick-built home. For years it was known as Gisborne’s House, after the family who rebuilt it and who lived there. As grand as it is, until 1855 it was even more so – half the building was demolished for the construction of Becket Street.
It opened as the Jacobean House Café in April 1907, its wooden floors and panelling and splendid fireplaces lending the café a grand, elegant and yet cosy ambience. Presumably the enterprising proprietors wanted to attract clientele from further afield, because they advertised the opening in the Derbyshire Advertiser.
“The Jacobean House, Wardwick, Derby. This ancient and interesting Mansion is NOW OPEN as a HIGHCLASS CAFÉ.”
Potential patrons were told that it offered “Coffee, teas and other Refreshments”. And they were promised “Dainty Appointments. Smart Service. Moderate Charges”.
That same week a review appeared in the newspaper: “The splendid old Jacobean House, standing in the Wardwick opposite the Free Library, and which is one of the few remaining old relics of Derby, has been converted into a high-class café and is now open to the public. The patrons, whilst enjoying all the comforts of a modern café , may conjure up in vivid imagination the many interesting gatherings which must have taken place in an old-time mansion of this description. The furnishing is in harmony with the building. Particular attention has been devoted to what is known as the oak parlour – a cosy but quaintlyshaped room, which is well lit by windows to the Wardwick.”
Those first owners of the café set out to encourage their customers to take full advantage of all its space.
“The whole suite of rooms may be engaged for whist drives and, for those who have not convenience in their own homes, it is an ideal place for private parties.”
They were also keen to establish it as “the” place to be seen. “It is the intention of the management to conduct the establishment upon the most correct and approved lines.”
By the end of the month, the proprietors had to bring in new staff – an indication that the café was busier than had been expected.
Another advertisement in the same newspaper, later in the year, made a bold claim: “The first TEA used in Derby! It is stated in an old record that a lady, living in the Jacobean House over 200 years ago, was the first to introduce TEA into Derby and that the boiled leaves were handed round on plates. Delicious Tea is now served to the Public in this ancient house but in a daintier and more palatable style.”
That summer it was announced that the café was to make full use of some of its lovely ornamental gardens.
“The Garden Café.
We beg to announce that the GARDEN will be OPEN DAILY (weather permitting) from 10am to dusk. TEAS AND OTHER REFRESHMENTS will be Served on the Lawn.”
The café had invested in a stateon-the-art “Consel Soda Fountain”, later described as an “American” machine. On a long, hot summer’s day, “ALL KINDS OF DELICIOUS ICED FRUIT DRINKS of absolute parity” must have been popular. As the café’s reputation grew countless groups and organisations held meetings there. Among them was the Derbyshire branch of the Commons and Footpaths Preservation Society, while couples began to celebrate wedding receptions there. Alice Archer and Henry Smith arranged to have their entire wedding party transported to the café by carriage after their wedding at Marston-onDove.
In June 1909, the café successfully applied for a licence to play music. The next summer another glowing review appeared of the “quaint Jacobean tea garden”. Readers were told: “The severe surroundings of a business thoroughfare gives no idea of the charming little green vista to be seen through the open door of the oak-panelled passage in the Wardwick Café.
“Indeed, unless aware beforehand, one comes upon the garden with as much wonderment as Alice did when she made her voyage of discovery through the rabbit burrow… a square of smooth green turf is surrounded by a walk, and again by high walls, covered with trained fruit trees. These quite shut out all recollection of the world
beyond, and make the garden a little haven of refuge. Seats and little round tables are arranged where one can have tea, coffee or, in summer, one of the many nectars from an American iced soda fountain. All the cakes, which are of the daintiest description, especially the scones, are made on the premises. Besides tea, lunches are also provided and can be eaten in one of the many oak parlours.”
In 1913 the Jacobean House itself came up for auction. “That Fine Old Freehold Residence”, as the advertisement called it, was still listed as if it retained its purpose as a home – bedrooms, boxroom, dining room, sitting room, scullery and so on. But regulars of the café need not have worried – it was being sold complete with its tenant, the café, which was declared to earn a net yearly rental of £90.
By the first Christmas of the First World War, the café was well established and even sold some of its own products through other businesses, such as the “Homemade Plum Puddings” on sale at G Austin and Co in Market Place.
For its own customers the café advertised that it “respectfully invites an early inspection of their Specialities, manufactured on the premises. Only the best ingredients used.”
As well as the plum puddings there was “best mince-meat”, “best Iced Cakes” and “Mince-pies, Congress Tarts” (a sort of raspberry and almond tart) and “Cakes for Afternoon Tea” as well as the “best chocolates in fancy boxes”.
One year on and the café had expanded its seasonal range to include “Xmas Cakes”.
During the First World War the public did experience some rationing, particularly of meat, although this was in no way as harsh as that which would be experienced during the Second World War. One women’s column reassured readers that “really a meatless menu does not involve starvation, as will appear from the large choice offered at the quaint little Jacobean Café”. The menu included “Scotch broth, lentil soup, fried whiting, filleted plaice, vegetarian sausages, egg and tomato fritters, poached eggs and spinach, savoury omelette, damson tart, apple pudding, prune pudding, lemon pudding, tapioca pudding”.
The columnist assured readers she had been impressed: “In experiment I tried the least familiar dish – vegetable sausage, and found it a most delicious and savoury compound, served as it was with a good gravy and tomato sauce.”
After the war, another advertisement showed things were getting back to a more genteel nature. Cakes of many varieties – both familiar and rather exotic – were offered – “chocolate, pine apple [sic], violet, lemon, sultana, Madeira, cherry, seed etc”.
By 1924, the proprietors seemed to have adopted some of the house’s history as their own when a scarcely disguised short advertisement feature appeared in the Derby Telegraph. It reported: “More about the famous Jacobean Café. Born AD 1611, when it started its joys and pleasures. Still doing the same as the Supreme Café of Derby … we lead; others try to follow. Daily comments on our 2 shilling daily (10p) Ordinary by our customers: ‘Have enjoyed an excellent lunch; it’s the best in Derby.”
There was a three-shilling (15p) four-course luncheon and now hot and cold suppers. And regular entertainment, too. “The Bessender Trio play daily; your favourite piece played on request; solos given by pianist, violinist and cellist, afternoon and evening”.
Clearly the owners were keen to welcome additional customers: “You need never hesitate or be ashamed to meet your friends at Ye Olde Jaco, Derby’s Favourite Café”.
The following year the Jacobean Café produced another advertisement, revealing a sample luncheon menu. “1s 9d (9p) on and after March 23rd. Soup, choice of Entrée or Joint, two Vegetables, Sweets and Coffee.”
“Jacobean Café, where satisfaction and best of everything guaranteed. No play time or playthings at the Supreme Café of Derby.”
By 1937 a Mr E Pemberton had taken over the business. According to the Derby Telegraph, under his “highly practical control [the café] had gained a name that has spread over a large territory, as a place where both the local and travelling public can well satisfy their demands in the matter of obtaining good food.
“The menu consists not only of the prime necessities of life, but many inviting and tempting delicacies of luncheons or dinners … to please the most jaded appetite.
“It caters for everyone – for the businessman who requires a good substantial table d’hote lunch at a reasonable price, or for that section of the public who like to gossip over a cup of coffee and cigarette. But whatever your fancies you can be sure of good service and attention.”
By now the slightly ambitious “history” of previous owners was being taken as fact. Articles now declared the café “was founded in 1611”.
Pemberton was keen to expand the catering and the article reported that “the beautiful Queen Anne room provides excellent accommodation for parties, weddings, banquets, and all social functions … everything is done with a difference and individualism that will make your guests long remember the occasion with pride and satisfaction.”
He renamed the establishment “Ye Olde Jacobean” and called it “Derby’s Supreme Café” Among options on offer were soup, entrée or joint, two vegetables, sweets, cheese and biscuits for 1s 9d; Dainty teas. Grills with chips 1s 6d (8p); Hot suppers from 6.30pm; Morning coffee with cigarette 9.30 to 11.30 Evening coffee with cigarette.”
The Jacobean Cafe survived the Second World War but closed in 1954 and the house was purchased as an investment by a nurses’ pension scheme and was reconfigured as shops and offices.
The large garden was heavily built on in the early 1970s to create Burdett House and all trace of it has long since disappeared.
The menu consists not only of the prime necessities of life, but many inviting and tempting delicacies