Says the best way to visit Washington DC is to head over to the other side of the river
LINDSAY SUTTON
WHEN you hear the word ‘Arlington,’ your first thought is of America’s National Cemetery. The one where the Eternal Flame burns brightly on the grave of President John F Kennedy.
Where row upon row of white tombstones – all the same size, all equally spaced – adorn the gentle slopes that look out over Washington DC, on the opposite bank of the Potomac River.
On high stands Arlington House, the former home of Confederate leader Robert E Lee. With its classical, Greek-columned entrance, it is a symbol of Southern pride and defiance. After all, it is in Virginia... and Virginia was the northernmost state to side with the South during the Civil War.
Higher still is the Observation Deck in nearby Rosslyn. For visitors, the deck – on the 31st floor of the new CEB office block tower – is a sensational addition to the south bank.
Its outdoor, cantilever terrace offers a unique 360-degree panoramic view of DC’s famous monuments and landmarks. There are also interactive, touchscreen displays ‘to look deeper into the landmark features,” and to bring to life the historical figures whose monuments are to be seen across the river. The Lincoln Memorial is one, with George Washington and Thomas Jefferson also featured.
Downstream is the Arlington Cemetery, and further on, the Pentagon.
Symbolically, DC proper and Arlington are linked by the Arlington Memorial Bridge, a straight line connecting Lee’s home in the ‘South’ to Abraham Lincoln’s marble memorial on the northern bank. Two leaders, two causes, two sides, one ending – united in death and ultimately reunited as one country.
Interestingly, Arlington was part of the 10 square mile capital design by Frenchman Pierre L’Enfant, who was commissioned to create a new political centre for the embryonic United States, one that stretched over
from the north, across the Potomac River dividing line and into what is officially ‘the South’.
With its strong connection to DC, little wonder they still say today: “Arlington is bottom of the North, not top of the South.”
So what does Arlington offer the modern-day visitor? For starters, it’s up to 25% cheaper to stay on the southern side of the river, even if you intend to visit the sites of DC proper. My wife and I did just that, using the fast and cheap Metro underground, which whisks you to the
White House, the Smithsonian museums and
Capital Hill in double-quick time.
Half an hour tops, and you can be savouring the cherry ■ LINDSAY SUTTON flew from Manchester to Washington Dulles with United Airlines for £438 return. Flying out with partner airline Aer Lingus, they cleared US Customs in Dublin, returning direct from blossom round the Tidal Basin, the amazing Natural History Museum, the Vietnam War Wall and the rest of DC’s great attractions.
Arlington is a surprisingly laid back place in itself. It’s a bolthole for folk who work in DC and who want to retreat to a safe and clean environment that has a friendly and relaxing vibe. Near enough, but far enough away too. It’s the same for a hard-pressed tourist after a day’s slog in the capital.
There’s no better place to stay than the Holmewood Suites, which has a shuttle service to all local areas, within reason, including the Metro underground station.
Good and accessible Washington DC to Manchester. Direct United flights from London Heathrow are available at united.com
■ ROOMS at Homewood Suites by Hilton, Arlington, pictured left, cost from £111 a night – see homewoodsuites3. hilton.com
■ FIND information about the area at stayarlington.com and washington.org restaurants abound in the conglomerate of ‘urban villages’ and the shuttle driver will take you there and pick you up.
The Holmewood overnight fee includes a wide-selection breakfast buffet service, plus nibbles and wine at teatime.
Arlington National Cemetery is far more than a sombre resting place, by the way. There’s a serenity in the rolling, manicured hills beside the Potomac River; the views across the river to DC give you a distinct sense of time and place, and there is lots to make the grey matter tick.
The Kennedy Clan were no innocents, but there is a distinct residual affection for Jack, Bobby and Teddy, who are all buried here.
It’s poignant to learn that JFK said: “This view is magnificent. I could stay here forever.” Eight months later, he was shot and his wish came true.
A short metro ride away is another powerful but simple statement to the fallen, the National 9/11 Pentagon Memorial, which remembers the 184 people who died as victims in the building itself, or on AA Flight 77 which was forced to plunge into it by the 9/11 hijackers.
Small, low, cantilever-style benches, with flowing water beneath each one, all point the same way, arranged according to age from that of three-year-old Dana Falkenberg to that of 71-yearold John Yamnicky.
Back in Arlington, the iconic Iwo Jima statue, with six marines holding up the American flag as they fought to end World War Two in Japan, might seem to glorify war.
But, as in Clint Eastwood’s film Flags of Our Fathers, the huge sacrifice and death toll here is remembered too.
At the time, a war-weary nation was glad to close the book.
The iconic Iwo Jima statue
Tourists visit the gravesite of the 35th President of the United States, John F Kennedy