CAPITAL OF CULTURE
CLAIRE SPREADBURY AND HER DAUgHTERS TAKE TO THE mUSEUmS, THEATRES AND ATTRACTiONS OF THE Big SmOKE, AND SOAK UP EVERy DROP OF iNSPiRATiON
my nine-year-old silhouetted in the lights of the theatre, mouth agog, hand cupping her jaw and her eyes wide, reminds me why seeing a West End musical is worth every last penny. It feels more expensive than ever, but boy have we missed it.
London has been lonely. With no tourists to fill hotels, theatres only recently reopened and far fewer people feeling safe enough to ride the rails of the underground, the streets of England’s capital city have had a rough time of late.
But as restrictions lifted, London began to get her mojo back. And where better to take the kids to reignite their love of culture?
We only live 15 miles outside of the capital, but thanks to Covid, we haven’t ventured inside her beating streets for more than two years. Rosie, 12, and Poppy, nine, are visibly giddy at the thought of a smart hotel.
We’re staying at The Kensington – and after just a five-minute-walk from the tube station, we see the flags flying proudly in the breeze.
The girls gasp as we check into the recently refurbed Family room, where giant beds are surrounded by floral wallpaper. Calming colours of green and pale blues cocoon the space, and the luxe gold, marble and mirrored bathroom comes with oodles of complimentary Malin+Goetz toiletries.
Stepping through the city, we lick ice-creams on the South Bank and jostle for a view of a street performer juggling with swords while riding a bicycle. More eye-popping sights await on board the London Eye, where we ogle Big Ben, The Shard and every inch of London’s scintillating skyline. And at the Tower of London, I feel wonderfully smug as the kids get a oneSEEING to-one history lesson with chief yeoman warder Pete McGowran.
On the Secrets Tour, the girls’ eyes glint as Pete rattles the Queen’s giant set of keys, and shows us the lamp they light every night as they lock up the Tower. We sneak out the back to the royal entrance, through gates dating back over 500 years (although parts of the building were erected as early as the 11th century) and marvel at the pet cemetery and boules lawn.
One hundred and ten people live here, Pete tells us, as we pass through shards of daylight streaming through one of the two portcullis gates.
There was once about 13 pubs in this “little village”, as he calls it, but now there’s just The Keys, where the warders can enjoy some downtime or celebration in the red leather chairs, walls adorned with photos of yeoman and celebrities.
Stories abound of all the past kings, queens, deaths, prisoners and “the greatest whodunnit in history” (the princes who went missing in the Tower). Later, Pete even tests the girls on dates to see what they can remember.
The council chamber where much of Guy Fawkes’ interrogation was done is housed here, as well as a room and toilet prepared for Hitler – just in case he was ever caught.
The Crown Jewels are the star of the show, of course, and all our eyes widen as we squint at the 3,000 gems adorning The Jewelled Sword of Offering, and the giant glistening Cullinan diamond and Stuart sapphire proudly presented on the Imperial State Crown.
And we snigger at the Prince of Wales Coronet, which contains an actual ping pong ball, which has been sprayed gold, so as not to
Our eyes widen as we squint at the 3,000 gems adorning The Jewelled Sword of Offering
make the crown too heavy.
After pounding pavements, nothing feels more necessary than a spot of afternoon tea, which we head back to the Kensington for, flopping our tired bodies down on the squishy velvet chairs in the drawing room. Delicate tea is poured from heavy silver teapots, as we tuck into finger sandwiches and bite-sized treats depicting the skyline of London (the Big Ben lemon curd tart is undoubtedly my favourite) before unwrapping the cotton napkins keeping the freshly-baked scones warm, waiting to be slathered in jam and cream.
We sleep like queens before soaking up some more culture at the Victoria & Albert Museum, courtesy of the Alice In Wonderland exhibition. We wander over to the river scene, where Charles Dodgson (better known as Lewis Carroll) first told the tale to the real Alice – Alice Liddell, who begged him to write it down as a keepsake.
Tiny glass baubles hang from the ceiling, their swirling filaments lighting up intermittently above vintage games, photos and drawings bringing the history of the book to life.
We follow white rabbits around as excerpts from the book bellow out of speakers, and tread a curiouser and curiouser world of doors, casting giant shadows as we peek through windows and stand beneath an animated rain shower.
Deckchairs await beneath a giant lit up mushroom for anyone needing a sit down, and screens showcase every version of the film, from Tim Burton’s 2016 Alice Through The Looking Glass to the 1951 cartoon.
A tea party table for 13 is laid out with teapots, plates, jugs, teacups and cutlery, all lit up by projectors beaming ever-changing scenes on to the tablescape. And it all culminates in a virtual experience, where we sit beneath fabric flowers and swirling green vines, wearing headsets which take us on our very own journey into Wonderland.
As if our senses could take any more, the call of the Lion King becomes the cherry on the cake of our London escape. Every tottering stilt walk of giraffe, every stealthy stalk of the leopard, each and every actor embodies the characters like nothing I’ve ever seen before. The choreography, casting, costumes and sets continue to blow our minds in a kaleidoscope of colour and emotion almost 25 years since the first performance.
“This is the best,” whispers Rosie, as Poppy fist pumps the air in ecstasy.
Who needs the sunshine when we have all of this on our doorstep? London is bouncing back from tough times.
And the West End? Hakuna Matata.
THERE’S something very satisfying about reaching a destination under your own steam.
Getting from A to B powered only by physical fitness and enthusiasm can be as rewarding as holidaying in the place you’re aiming to reach.
According to estimates by the RAC, 25% of the UK population don’t hold a driving licence. A far higher number would likely admit they’d be happier not to be behind the wheel while abroad. Then there’s the positive environmental aspect of going carfree to consider.
If you want to swap motors for hiking, biking or the train on your next holiday, here are a few options for seeing parts of Europe car-free.
FOOTLOOSE IN MENORCA
Home to an abundance of winding coastal paths, peaks and rugged coves, the varied landscape and dramatic scenery of Menorca make it a prime hiking destination.
Hikes include the iconic Cami de Cavalls, a historic path running around the entire coastline of the island. First constructed for military purposes, it has seen improvements thanks to investment from the Sustainable Tourism Tax.
Stay in Morvedra Nou Hotel, an elegant, family-run 17th century Spanish finca near Ciutadella.
Responsibletravel.com (01273 823 700) offers an eight-day walking holiday from £1,145 per person (two sharing) including flights and halfboard accommodation.
Visit menorca.es
FREE-WHEEL IN ESTONIA
A predominantly flat country with over 6,500 kilometres of trails - the majority of which are off-road Estonia is an ideal destination for cyclists. For those wanting to cross the country by bike, the 981km EuroVelo 10 starts near the Latvian border in the south and passes through Parnu, Tallinn, Lahemaa, the oldest national
park in Estonia, and ends at the Russian border.
Exodus Travel (exodus.co.uk; 020 3993 7598) offers an 11-day Cycle the Baltics trip from £1,549 per person (two sharing), including accommodation with breakfast, cycle hire and a tour leader throughout. Visit visitestonia.com/ discovercyclingroutes
BLAZING A TRAIL IN SWITZERLAND
Travel by track and trail on an adrenaline-fuelled trip to Swiss mountain Mont Blanc. As part of their commitment to shrink carbon emissions, Exodus Travel has expanded its train travel with over a third of all holidays now available flight-free – including a 15-day trip to one of Europe’s iconic peaks.
The journey from London to Geneva by rail is approximately seven hours and, following a change of trains in Paris, the route continues through mesmerising mountainous terrain, crossing the spectacular Cize-Bolozon viaduct over the Ain gorge. Spend the next 10 days hiking with three rest days.
Exodus Travel (exodus.co.uk; 020 3993 7598) offers a 15-day Tour du Mont Blanc Camping Trek from £1,799 per person (two sharing), including supported camping, rail travel from London, and most meals. Various departures in 2022.
RAMBLING AROUND THE ISLANDS
The Channel Islands offer a more laidback life than the mainland and, with their autumn landscapes, they make walking a wonder at the moment. Put your boots on to really get to know Jersey, Guernsey, Herm and Sark. If you want to go completely car-free, you won’t find a single one on Sark!
Channel Islands Direct (channelislandsdirect.co.uk; 0800 640 9058) offers a four-night B&B stay at The Duke of Richmond hotel from £435 per person, including flights from London Gatwick.