Part of the Union will be staying alive, thanks to Thornbridge
With welcome news as Bakewell brewers step in to save historic equipment that was being lost
JUST when you think there is nothing left to surprise you in the world of beer, along comes something that does. And the news this week that Derbyshire’s Thornbridge Brewery is taking on at least a small number of the now redundant Burton Union fermentation sets that CarlsbergMarston’s in Burton were ready to throw away is just such a surprise, a pleasant one at that.
And they are going to use them! That Thornbridge plan, first, to use them to brew their superb Jaipur IPA should excite any beer enthusiast.
I think, probably, most people who take the trouble to read this column will know what the Burton Unions are – an archaic, complicated, yet brilliant method of fermenting beer and keeping the yeast that did it fresh.
I have borrowed, with permission, renowned beer writer Pete Brown’s emotive description for the detail – see the adjacent panel.
Anyway, Carlsberg-Marston’s Brewing Company (CMBC from hereon) are not big on recognising the importance of the history and culture of our national drink, so in January they decided they were no longer going to use the vast, atmospheric “union room” at the brewery.
Its associated maintenance costs make accountants wince but are, of course, a tiny drop in the ocean for a company as big as CMBC and there’s no telling them that the goodwill they would generate by treasuring and retaining the unions is something money cannot buy. So they were going to throw them away – as Bass did theirs, years ago.
At this point, on the face of it, illogically, an American brewer steps into the story. Garrett
Oliver is brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery and renowned worldwide for his expertise. He knows history and culture when he sees it.
He collaborates with Thornbridge and has a trading agreement with Carlsberg, so he was perhaps uniquely placed to bring the two parties together. He says: “When I heard that the unions were slated to go silent, I immediately thought that Thornbridge would be the perfect inheritors of this beautiful piece of British brewing heritage. I’m thrilled to provide the ‘assist’ on this historic play.” And so it came to pass and six union barrels are now in a new home at the Bakewell brewery.
I suppose some credit should be due to CMBC for agreeing to hand them over and helping with the transportation and installation.
But a statement from them which appears to take the credit also takes the biscuit: “CMBC have helped Thornbridge set up their very own Burton Union system. Together we have found a new home for some of our Burton Union sets.” Hmm.
Emma Gilleland, the former Marston’s head brewer who is now director of brewing for CMBC, said: “This collaboration is a perfect showcase for the ways brewers can come together to deliver something special, for the love of beer and Britain’s incredible brewing heritage.
“We’ve been proud to support Thornbridge through the process by sharing our time and expertise to help set up their own union system and we are confident they will be fantastic custodians for our union sets.”
Well, true, but without Garrett Oliver’s intervention, were CMBC looking to collaborate with anybody to preserve “Britain’s incredible brewing heritage”? Draw your own conclusion.
But enough of me ranting about that, the future is what matters and doing this is yet another feather in the cap for Thornbridge, brilliant innovators that they are.
Here’s the main part of their statement: “Thornbridge have stepped in to save one of the sets, not only for its historic importance but also to utilise it in a modern way and continue to premiumise their cask beer range.
“Starting with a brew of their flagship beer, Jaipur, they will follow up by brewing other much-loved beers from their catalogue, new beers specifically for the Union kit and collaborations.
“Collaboration brews on the system will be an integral part of its future at Thornbridge; bringing together breweries with a keen sense of history who would like to help innovate with the system.”
As Pete Brown points out, CMBC retired the unions, in their words, because they were no longer viable due to the decline in the UK cask beer market – and yet Thornbridge, who also sell no end of keg, bottled and canned beers, definitely DO see a future for cask beer.
In conclusion, Pete says in his blog: “I’m sure there’ll be a lot of hot takes on this.
“But Britain now has an authentic union set brewing beer again. Which it didn’t have before this deal was struck.”
I’ll drink to that.