No or­di­nary An­gel... DIS­COVER MORE

The heav­ens opened but the thought of The An­gel made it a night to re­mem­ber for lucky re­viewer KATE HASKELL, as she ex­plains As well as the mag­a­zine, Devon Life brings you in­for­ma­tion about lo­cal food and drink in the fol­low­ing ways:

Devon Life - - Hulstone Fish -

On a wet and windy Satur­day it was tempt­ing to stay in and watch yet an­other night of TV but the lure of re­view­ing a new restau­rant in the beau­ti­ful town of Dart­mouth was enough to tempt me from my slip­pers and brave the storm.

The An­gel has had a few in­car­na­tions over the years; most lo­cals will re­mem­ber it when it was un­der the lead­er­ship of Joyce Molyneux, one of the first fe­male chefs to gain a Miche­lin Star.

Other own­ers since have had vary­ing de­grees of suc­cess but it was clear as we set­tled at our ta­ble that this is one that is here to stay. Ev­ery­thing from the decor, to the at­mos­phere, and, of course, the food is a plea­sure to look at, touch, feel and taste; I would de­scribe it as a sen­sory ex­pe­ri­ence. Sheep­skin wool bar stools beckon you to ruf­fle as you walk past, suede ta­ble mats that you can’t help but stroke, as you gaze at a menu that is invit­ing, lo­cal and with the right amount of el­e­gance to re­mind you that this is fine din­ing but with­out the fussi­ness.

Head Chef Elly Went­worth first came to the at­ten­tion of the foodie world when she stormed through to the fi­nals of BBC’S Masterchef in 2016. I met her shortly af­ter­wards where we dis­cussed her plans for the fu­ture and she told me she wanted to have her own restau­rant by the time she was 26 years old.

Guess what? She is now 26 years old and has her own restau­rant but to be hon­est I knew then that it was never go­ing to be in any doubt. This is a young woman with tal­ent,


Go to The Menu sec­tion on Devon Life’s web­site for spe­cial of­fers and recipes along a with di­rec­tory of great places to eat de­ter­mi­na­tion and a gift for match­ing flavours and then de­liv­er­ing them with per­fec­tion.

My starter of beet­root tart with poppy seed goats’ curd, beet­root rel­ish and sor­rel was a de­light­ful mix of tex­ture and taste bud­pop­ping fresh­ness. My hus­band chose the roast diver scal­lops with chicken wing, hazel­nut and dates; I think he liked it as it was a good few min­utes be­fore I could get con­ver­sa­tion out of him again - just a lot of nod­ding and “mmmm” noises trav­elled over the ta­ble!

Best end of Dart­moor shep­herd lamb with smoked apri­cot jam, spring onion and lamb jus was the main course for me and to say it was cooked to per­fec­tion may be a cliché but it truly is the best de­scrip­tion; the ad­di­tion of smoked apri­cot jam was a sur­pris­ing but wel­come flavour and one I’d like to try at home. Wild Devon veni­son was our other choice; you can see the theme here…devon, Dart­moor, wher­ever pos­si­ble ev­ery­thing is lo­cally sourced.

By the time my dessert of ‘choco­late bar’ with lime caramel, pis­ta­chio and sea salt ice cream ar­rived, the belt had to be loos­ened be­cause I haven’t even men­tioned yet the com­ple­men­tary ar­ray of canapés and homemade bread we had on ar­rival. Those that fear that fine din­ing means small por­tions need not worry about that at The An­gel. Tum­mies will not be rum­bling by the time you leave.

A small part of my evening was spent peo­ple watch­ing and it is here you re­ally get the best re­view; eyes widen­ing on the first mouth­ful, lots of agree­able nod­ding and pinch­ing from their din­ner com­pan­ions plate as they ea­gerly wanted to try all the dishes is bet­ter than any Tripad­vi­sor com­ment.

A good wine list along with lo­cal gins and soft drinks will wash ev­ery­thing down per­fectly and a mo­ment here must go to men­tion­ing the ser­vice. The front of house man­ager, Jor­dan Wilt­shire with his en­thu­si­asm, knowl­edge and per­son­al­ity will go a long way in con­tribut­ing to the suc­cess of this restau­rant.

All too soon it was time to ven­ture out into the night once again but thank­fully the rain had stopped as we re­ally needed the walk back to ho­tel!


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