No ordinary Angel... DISCOVER MORE
The heavens opened but the thought of The Angel made it a night to remember for lucky reviewer KATE HASKELL, as she explains As well as the magazine, Devon Life brings you information about local food and drink in the following ways:
On a wet and windy Saturday it was tempting to stay in and watch yet another night of TV but the lure of reviewing a new restaurant in the beautiful town of Dartmouth was enough to tempt me from my slippers and brave the storm.
The Angel has had a few incarnations over the years; most locals will remember it when it was under the leadership of Joyce Molyneux, one of the first female chefs to gain a Michelin Star.
Other owners since have had varying degrees of success but it was clear as we settled at our table that this is one that is here to stay. Everything from the decor, to the atmosphere, and, of course, the food is a pleasure to look at, touch, feel and taste; I would describe it as a sensory experience. Sheepskin wool bar stools beckon you to ruffle as you walk past, suede table mats that you can’t help but stroke, as you gaze at a menu that is inviting, local and with the right amount of elegance to remind you that this is fine dining but without the fussiness.
Head Chef Elly Wentworth first came to the attention of the foodie world when she stormed through to the finals of BBC’S Masterchef in 2016. I met her shortly afterwards where we discussed her plans for the future and she told me she wanted to have her own restaurant by the time she was 26 years old.
Guess what? She is now 26 years old and has her own restaurant but to be honest I knew then that it was never going to be in any doubt. This is a young woman with talent,
Go to The Menu section on Devon Life’s website for special offers and recipes along a with directory of great places to eat determination and a gift for matching flavours and then delivering them with perfection.
My starter of beetroot tart with poppy seed goats’ curd, beetroot relish and sorrel was a delightful mix of texture and taste budpopping freshness. My husband chose the roast diver scallops with chicken wing, hazelnut and dates; I think he liked it as it was a good few minutes before I could get conversation out of him again - just a lot of nodding and “mmmm” noises travelled over the table!
Best end of Dartmoor shepherd lamb with smoked apricot jam, spring onion and lamb jus was the main course for me and to say it was cooked to perfection may be a cliché but it truly is the best description; the addition of smoked apricot jam was a surprising but welcome flavour and one I’d like to try at home. Wild Devon venison was our other choice; you can see the theme here…devon, Dartmoor, wherever possible everything is locally sourced.
By the time my dessert of ‘chocolate bar’ with lime caramel, pistachio and sea salt ice cream arrived, the belt had to be loosened because I haven’t even mentioned yet the complementary array of canapés and homemade bread we had on arrival. Those that fear that fine dining means small portions need not worry about that at The Angel. Tummies will not be rumbling by the time you leave.
A small part of my evening was spent people watching and it is here you really get the best review; eyes widening on the first mouthful, lots of agreeable nodding and pinching from their dinner companions plate as they eagerly wanted to try all the dishes is better than any Tripadvisor comment.
A good wine list along with local gins and soft drinks will wash everything down perfectly and a moment here must go to mentioning the service. The front of house manager, Jordan Wiltshire with his enthusiasm, knowledge and personality will go a long way in contributing to the success of this restaurant.
All too soon it was time to venture out into the night once again but thankfully the rain had stopped as we really needed the walk back to hotel!
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