REFINDING NEVERLAND - IN EILEAN SHONA
Holly chats to Vanessa Branson about her exclusive Scottish island, a private paradise of beautiful beaches, woodlands, and craggy shores.
Holly chats to Vanessa Branson about all the wonderful experiences to be had on her exclusive Scottish island, Eilean Shona - a private paradise of
beautiful beaches, woodlands, and craggy shores
VANESSA BRANSON IS A TALENTED art curator and entrepreneur, with a flair for beautiful properties and an ability to turn them into unique retreats. As part of the Dream Escape Podcast Series Holly had the pleasure of speaking to Vanessa about one of her idyllic adventures; Eilean Shona, a private Scottish island paradise, where days are filled with wild swimming, reading, hiking, picnicking, kayaking and nature watching as well as cooking and drinking with friends around the campfire. This very special and secluded island, described by English actress Kate Winslet as “Heaven on Earth”, can be found nestled in a tranquil loch on the dramatic west coast of Scotland - an exclusive Scottish haven
described as a back-to-nature Neverland. “There certainly is a feeling of true fantasy here”, explains Vanessa, sister to Sir Richard, who together, with their families, share a soft spot for this idyllic playground. Originally the site of an 18th-century hunting lodge, the island has an illustrious history - the author J.M. Barrie spent summers here in the 1920s and it is where he wrote the screenplay
for the film adaptation of Peter Pan.
Owning an island in Scotland was not initially on Vanessa's wish list. Pregnant with her fourth child, it was her former husband's idea of taking a boat over there (just to take a look) while on the way to visiting friends on Mull.
“He was really the driver behind it. The romance, ruggedness and manliness of owning an island appealed to him”.
However, the moment Vanessa saw Eilean Shona for the first time she was deeply smitten by it. “It was the most extraordinary still day - one of those magic West Coast days, really clear and silent. I saw it from across the water and the only noise was an oystercatcher peeping across the water. Then when we landed on the island and the kids just ran around, and oh, it's just wonderful to watch”.
They bought the island in 1995, the day before her youngest son Ivo was born - Vanessa's heart was completely won over.
LUXURIOUS SIMPLICITY
With a choice of eight self-catering holiday cottages and a 12 bedroom country home, Vanessa shares Eilean Shona as a private island getaway for holiday guests. “It's a retreat for individuals, couples and families who want to detach and detox from the modern world, a car-free wilderness heaven.” explains Vanessa.
Through Dream Escape, you can either rent the whole island, just the main house (charming - sleeps 20), or one of the five individual cottages.
Dorlin Pier is just over an hour's drive from Fort William. From there it's a 15 minute boat journey across crystal clear waters to arrive at the island's pontoon), and this is really where the Eilean Shona adventure begins.
Once on the island it is surprisingly easy to fill your time, either taking part in workshops and island activities, or finding your own adventures.
“The island itself is actually quite big, it's not just a little sort of rocky outcrop” Vanessa describes.
“It's about three miles long by about a mile wide. It's got mountains. It's got a beautiful sandy beach. It's got woodlands, it's got craggy shores. It's quite well protected on one side and it's got the Atlantic on the other, so every cove you go into has a different sort
“
It’s not just a little sort of rocky outcrop... It’s got mountains. It’s got a beautiful sandy beach. It’s got woodlands,
shores.” it’s got craggy
of little microclimate and also its own flora and fauna. We've also got what we call the village hall where we have parties”.
This is Eilean Shona's social hub - complete with Wi-Fi, table tennis, wildlife reference books and board games. “Something I have grown to appreciate more and more is the weather and just being outdoors. The tides and the wind direction sort of dictates your day. You connect with it. And there's something immensely rewarding in that, when you're just sitting outside, painting, cooking a bowl of mussels over a campfire, or just hanging out with with your friends and family - that's just something I wouldn't do quite in the same way anywhere else in the world!
THE IMMERSIVE LANDSCAPE
The island has a limitless number of beautiful and varied walks with both marked and unmarked paths. Other than going off island, and the odd encounter on a walk, you will have the sense of being on your own private island, meeting very few others during your stay.
Rambles are a must on Eilean Shona, an island abundant with unique wildlife including red deer, red squirrels, otters, seals, white-tailed eagles, golden eagles, buzzards, curlew, oystercatcher, red breasted mergansers, herring gulls and tawny owls. Bird lovers should keep a look out for the many robins, song thrush, great spotted woodpeckers, blue tits, willow warblers and more. Butterfly species thrive on the island too, from peacocks, speckled wood and painted ladies to red admirals.
Swimming in Eilean Shona's pristine waters is one of the glories of the world. At first paddle, the water feels very cold indeed but Vanessa recommends you persevere.
“The quality of the water is pristine. It's just incredible. And we have very good quality swimming hats to keep our heads warm and then swim. And that's a real pleasure. Wear a swimming cap – if your head is warm you have nothing to fear!”
Another of the most satisfactory things to do is to kayak around the island. “It takes about six hours and there are three of the most beautiful deserted beaches on the way round - and it's just breathtaking. The bird life is extraordinary, but also in our north channel, we often have pods of dolphins that come in, a lot of seals bobbing up, minke whales and basking sharks.
We have nesting sea eagles that come over, just the most joyful creatures. You're kayaking along, you pull up on the beach and have a drink and a sandwich, and then go on around some more - and it's an indescribably beautiful day - one with a huge sense of achievement too. It's just wonderful”.
The locally sourced island cuisine sounds every bit as spectacular as the days themselves. “The mussels just hang off the end of our pontoon, the fisherman bring in the langoustine, and we have our own venison. I spend quite a lot of time just on walks collecting chanterelle and coastal plants.
In the main house we have a number of really excellent cooks. We have our own polytunnels, and from the village (on the mainland) we source local organic vegetables - there are also several places that smoke meats and fish locally, and some very good local whisky. Island cuisine feels very wholesome on Eilean Shona”. Dream Escape's, David Tobin couldn't agree more following a recent visit to the island.
“After the most beautiful drive through the wilderness you arrive at a very quiet dock on the west coast of Scotland. It's then just a short 10-minute crossing to Eilean Shona, which doesn't sound long, but you then enter a magical private world away from the stress and complications of everyday life. It really is a haven for rest, reflection and mental rehabilitation. It is also a way to quickly reconnect with the great outdoors, wildlife and freshly produced local food”.
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In our north channel we often have pods of dolphins that come in, a lot of seals bobbing up, minke whales and basking sharks.”