LORD OF THE ISLES
The Queen of the Hebrides, Isle of Islay
From its big skies and miles of sandy beaches to soaring eagles, red deer, and smoky malts, the Isle of Islay, once home to Scotland's fearsome Lord of the Isles, is the perfect base for an outdoor adventure
From its big skies and miles of sandy beaches, to soaring eagles, red deer, and bird watching all year round, the Isle of Islay, famous for its smoky malts and once home to Scotland's fearsome Lord of the Isles, is the perfect base for an outdoor island adventure
IN THE FAR WEST of Scotland, only 25 miles from the coast of Northern Ireland, the journey to get to the Isle of Islay, ‘Queen of the Hebrides', is an experience in itself. You can arrange to arrive in style by helicopter, flight or charter, direct from Glasgow, taking less than 30 minutes. Easy to reach from the mainland, Islay's stunning landscape might be just a 'wee' hop away, but its inviting idyllic setting is worlds apart from Scotland's vibrant city life.
While it is widely known that Islay has a place in the heart of every whisky lover, it's not just the world-class distilleries that draw visitors to this beautiful island. With miles of sandy beaches, outstanding Scottish wildlife and a rich Hebridean heritage, there's so much to see and do.
The most southernmost of the Inner Hebrides islands, beautiful Islay is renowned for its magnificent dramatic scenery – there's 239 square miles
(meaning it is just slightly smaller than Singapore) of this mossy, windswept rock to explore, a playground full of activities, on land and water, for visitors to enjoy.
Ramblers will love the choice of over 70 walks and trails (varying in lengths and ability), taken either along the coast, inland up a mountain, by foot or bike.
For an extra special adventure, don't miss the lovely woodland trail at Bridgend, or the spectacular cliff walk at the Oa RSPB Reserve with stunning views and lots of fascinating birdlife to spot. Loch Gruinart also offers a choice of woodland trails, including a visit to the RSPB hide.
For something more challenging, there's the cliff walk north of Ardbeg towards Solam and the abandoned 18th-century village, or the route from Bunnahabhain to Rhuvaal Lighthouse, the most northerly point on Islay with amazing views of Jura, and the chance to spot otters and seals.
One of the more fun ways to explore the island, an experience not to be missed, is on a balloon-tyred fat bike.
Fat bikes allow visitors an exciting way of exploring and experiencing the coast, with access to beaches and tracks offering opportunities to look for wildlife, while exploring Islay's natural wonders and historical sites. Float over the sand and pebbles on the five-mile long Big Strand beach from the airport, discover Frachdale village and forest track on the Kintra Hill path, or take on the hills from Kilnaughton to Port-an-Eas waterfall.
Another great way to enjoy the island is from the water on a sea-kayaking trip with your own qualified guide along the coast of Islay, exploring the delights along the way.
The silent mobility of sea kayaks enables you to enjoy a world of remote islands, skerries and stunning beaches and discover hidden lagoons and bays.
It also improves chances of spotting seals, herons, arctic terns, black guillemots and even the elusive otter in its natural environment.
Dream Escape's travel designers also arrange wild swimming, private boat trips and fishing experiences, with the chance to spot more wildlife in Islay's Special Area of Conservation (which is only viewable from the sea). This is a prime chance to catch mackerel, pollock, coley and cod.
The Centre of the Lordship of the Isles (otherwise known as the three islands of Loch Finlaggan) is a must for history lovers.
Here there is a visitor centre and opportunity to explore the fragmentary remains of buildings from when the chiefs of Clan Donald chose Finlaggan as their home and the centre of their Lordship, the reason Islay is often referred to as the Cradle of Clan Donald.
The Isle of Islay is also home to nine of Scotland's greatest distilleries: Ardbeg; Bowmore; Bruichladdich; Bunnahabhain; Caol Ila; Lagavulin; and Laphroaig; as well as two of the newest, Kilchoman and Ardnahoe, and last but not least, Port Ellen, which is currently being brought back into production by Diaego (who also own Lagavulin and Caol Ila), 35 years after it was closed.
Head west round the bay of Loch Indaal and you'll find Kilchoman. It stands very close to Kilchoman Cross, a fine piece of 14th-century Celtic carving in the graveyard of the ruined Kilchoman church.
Kilchoman has a lovely modern visitor centre with an elegant glass and metal log-burning stove in the middle. You'll find this particularly welcome on the occasions when the weather shifts and rain blows up the lock from the Atlantic.
Spend some time in Bowmore, an 18th-century new town of low, whitewashed buildings – built by the Campbells on the other side of Loch Indaal.
This is Islay's capital and also where the famous Bowmore distillery is located.
Visit the unusual Round Church and Celtic Stores, which sell Fair Isle sweaters, sea-washed paintings, unusual souvenirs (such as the Islay version of Monopoly), and many books about the island.
From photo essays to poetry collections and highly detailed history books, it's clear that Islay has inspired a lot of writers.
Enjoy an evening meal at the
Bowmore Hotel, an old stone inn whose most recent extension was built in 1912. In the tartan-carpeted dining room, chairs are made of local ash and elm. The array of fresh seafood on the menu is impressive, and owner Big Peter MacLellan is renowned as an expert on Scotch whisky.
Head down the most famous road in the history of distilling to Port Ellen, which stands on one of the southernmost tips of Islay.
From it, the A483 road runs east, and along it, within a two mile stretch, it passes three of Scotland's best-known distilleries: Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg.
Spend an afternoon in the lovely little sandy bay, Loch a' Chnuic, or visit nearby Kidalton (another of Islay's church ruins) and its 8th-century Celtic cross. Inside the roofless church there are tombstones representing armoured knights from the days when Islay was ruled by the Lord of the Isles.
ISLAND HOP TO JURA
Island hopping is made easy in the Inner Hebrides, and for an unforgettable experience with yet more untamed Scottish scenery, neighbouring Jura is an absolute must.
Take a private boat tour to visit the island, home to more spectacular beaches, the world-famous Jura distillery, and Ardfin, Scotland's most exciting hotel opening and home to a legendary golf course.
For some time it was thought the spectacular clifftop location of Ardfin would remain the private golf course of its retired hedge fund multi-millionaire owner, but golfers worldwide rejoiced when it was announced that the course would be accessible to the public. They recently opened Jura House, (the hotel), and shipped in 1,000 tonnes of sand from the Isle of Man for top-dressing the fairways, so there's never been a better time to visit this reimagined exclusive club. Ardfin has yet to appear in the world golf rankings because so few people have played here. The 11th hole, descending
the clifftop to the shoreline, passes the small old stone boathouse where Scottish artist, Bill Drummond and The KLF bandmate Jimmy Cauty, famously burnt £1 million in 1994. Also on Jura is the four-bedroom Barnhill cottage, where George Orwell completed his seminal novel Nineteen Eighty-Four.
With just one main road along Jura's 30-mile length, most places are accessible only on foot, making this a walker's paradise. You are sure to spot red deer, large birds (including golden eagles), seals aplenty and, if you're lucky, otters.
Dotted around the island are Iron Age forts and ancient standing stones. The three ‘Paps' mountains are a good climb (Paps is an old Norse word for breasts and they were so named due to their conical shape.) From the summits there are incredible views over the neighbouring islands and the Mull of Kintyre.
WHERE TO STAY
The Machrie
For a luxurious stay on Islay, Campbell Gray Hotels' first Scottish property, The Machrie, opened its doors in 2018. The modern, yet still traditionally Scottish hotel is home to seven miles of pristine beach; beautifully designed rooms, suites and lodges; finedining restaurant; a spa; and one of the finest Links golf courses in the world. With a pristine green turf set against the backdrop of the glistening blue sea, the location is hugely inviting and accommodating of both professionals to beginners alike.
The former European Ryder Cup Vice Captain and PGA tour player DJ Russell, modernised The Machrie's course during the refurbishments, using innovative design to combine the thrill of a traditional, historic links course with the best of modern design.
Its origins date back to 1891 when Willie
Campbell created the original classic layout. As well as the stunning 18-hole Links, there's the Wee course offering: six par-3 holes played from a multitude of tees, a covered driving range and short game area, and the glorious Hebrides putting course. Then spend your evening sitting by the fireplace in The Stag Lounge – on a clear night the sunsets are beautiful; a striking red filling the sky and reflecting over the ocean.