1 kg even-sized po­ta­toes in their skins (De­siree or Maris Piper are best), un­salted but­ter, Jersey gold top milk, sea salt and black pep­per­mill, 750g bone­less fresh and smoked fish, 2 bay leaves (fresh are best), 250g shelled shell­fish of your choice (cooked or raw), 1 le­mon.

1 tsp French mus­tard, 2 tsp English mus­tard pow­der, pinch of mace, dash of Worces­ter­shire sauce, 125ml dry ver­mouth/white wine, corn­flour. 1 small bunch of flat leaf pars­ley, leaves shred­ded, 6 hard­boiled eggs (shelled and halved), small hand­ful of cor­ni­chons and/or ca­pers, roughly chopped (op­tional), two hand­fuls of fresh bread­crumbs, two hand­fuls of finely grated Parme­san cheese


Sim­mer po­ta­toes in their skins un­til just cooked. When cool enough to han­dle but still warm, care­fully peel. Put through a po­tato ricer, or break up with a masher. Warm 50g but­ter in 100ml milk un­til hot and melted. Stir half into the po­ta­toes, mix and add more as nec­es­sary to achieve a creamy, firm mash. Sea­son to taste. Cover, set aside some­where warm.

Pre-heat oven to 190°C (fan). Place fish in a wide saucepan over medium heat. Add bay leaves and milk to just cover. Put on lid, bring to a gen­tle sim­mer and re­duce heat to low­est. When just cooked (5 mins), re­move fish with slot­ted spoon to a tray. Add shell­fish to the milk, sim­mer un­til just cooked. Re­move from the milk and add to fish tray. Squeeze over le­mon juice and keep warm. To the hot milk, add French mus­tard, mace, Worces­ter­shire sauce, ver­mouth/wine. Sea­son to taste. Blend one or two ta­ble­spoons of corn­flour with the same amount of soft but­ter. Whisk small amounts into the milk, bring­ing back to a sim­mer. Re­peat un­til the sauce has thick­ened to dou­ble cream con­sis­tency. Fold in pars­ley. Pour a third of the sauce into a deep oven­proof gratin dish, lay in the seafood, place eggs on top. Sprin­kle in cor­ni­chons/ca­pers. Pour in re­main­ing sauce. Use a spoon and fork to gen­tly cover with mashed po­tato. Mix bread­crumbs, mus­tard pow­der and cheese be­fore sprin­kling over. Place gratin dish on a wider tray to catch any drips and bake for 25-35 mins, or un­til well-browned, hot through­out and bub­bling.

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