When Bury went to Bilde­ston

Six chefs, one great cause, St Ni­cholas Hospice Care

EADT Suffolk - - INSIDE - WORDS: Tessa Alling­ham PHO­TOS: Sarah Lucy Brown

It is a rare treat in­deed to en­joy the food of some of Suf­folk’s finest chefs in one long, de­li­cious sit­ting. But, one dark night in Novem­ber, six of the best piled into Chris Lee’s kitchen at The Bilde­ston Crown and cooked up a storm of a menu for a packed din­ing room – and for St Ni­cholas Hospice Care.

The menu kicked off with the light­est of tem­pura oys­ters. James Carn, on canapés, ar­rived in the nick of time to ar­range his shells and deep-fry his oys­ters. “I got lost, it was dark, it took a year to get here,” he joked, but­ton­ing up his whites and un­pack­ing in­gre­di­ents onto the bench. It romped through Greig Young’s (The North­gate) in­ven­tive potato and cep ter­rine, Justin Sharp’s (Pea Por­ridge) leg­endary cur­ried lamb sweet­breads, and a colour­ful dish of pan-fried cod with sweet pops of or­ange but­ter­nut squash from Pas­cal Can­evet (Mai­son Bleue). Chris kept things su­per-sea­sonal with par­tridge, sprouts, the flavour in­ten­si­fied af­ter an early frost, smoky ba­con and sweet com­pressed pear (fin­ish­ing the dish with a sig­na­ture shave of truf­fle) while Zack Deakins (1921) on dessert left palates singing with a sen­sa­tional lemon curd par­fait, iced tea sor­bet, crème fraiche and mint. There was – of course – just enough space for James’ pe­tits fours canelés with their de­li­ciously sharp yuzu curd.

In­ven­tive wine pair­ings, from Ed Keith at Hall­gar­ten Wines,

ABOVE: Six of the best (from left) Pas­cal Can­evet, Greig Young, James Carn, Zack Deakins, Justin Sharp and Chris Lee.LEFT AND RIGHT: The chefs each pro­duced a course from canapes to starters, mains,d es­serts and pe­tits fours.

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