When Bury went to Bildeston
Six chefs, one great cause, St Nicholas Hospice Care
It is a rare treat indeed to enjoy the food of some of Suffolk’s finest chefs in one long, delicious sitting. But, one dark night in November, six of the best piled into Chris Lee’s kitchen at The Bildeston Crown and cooked up a storm of a menu for a packed dining room – and for St Nicholas Hospice Care.
The menu kicked off with the lightest of tempura oysters. James Carn, on canapés, arrived in the nick of time to arrange his shells and deep-fry his oysters. “I got lost, it was dark, it took a year to get here,” he joked, buttoning up his whites and unpacking ingredients onto the bench. It romped through Greig Young’s (The Northgate) inventive potato and cep terrine, Justin Sharp’s (Pea Porridge) legendary curried lamb sweetbreads, and a colourful dish of pan-fried cod with sweet pops of orange butternut squash from Pascal Canevet (Maison Bleue). Chris kept things super-seasonal with partridge, sprouts, the flavour intensified after an early frost, smoky bacon and sweet compressed pear (finishing the dish with a signature shave of truffle) while Zack Deakins (1921) on dessert left palates singing with a sensational lemon curd parfait, iced tea sorbet, crème fraiche and mint. There was – of course – just enough space for James’ petits fours canelés with their deliciously sharp yuzu curd.
Inventive wine pairings, from Ed Keith at Hallgarten Wines,
ABOVE: Six of the best (from left) Pascal Canevet, Greig Young, James Carn, Zack Deakins, Justin Sharp and Chris Lee.LEFT AND RIGHT: The chefs each produced a course from canapes to starters, mains,d esserts and petits fours.