Eastern Eye (UK)

‘Boohoo must link bonuses to improved workers’ rights’

FASHION GIANT MAY FACE US IMPORT BAN OVER ‘USE OF SLAVE LABOUR’ IN FACTORIES

- Reuters Foundation) (Thomson

FASHION brand Boohoo should link bosses’ hefty bonuses to improved workers’ rights instead of simply chasing growth, British MPs said last Friday (6), following reports of low pay and dire conditions among workers in its supply chains.

Parliament’s Environmen­tal Audit Committee (EAC) wrote to chairman Mahmud Kamani about plans to pay up to £150 million to Boohoo’s founders and top executives if the online firm’s share price rises 66 per cent over three years.

“We are asking Boohoo to put its money where its mouth is and link the multi-million pound bonuses it has lined up for its bosses to the achievemen­t of its ethical and environmen­tal pledges,” said committee chairman Philip Dunne in a statement.

Boohoo, which sells own-brand clothing, accessorie­s and beauty products, did not immediatel­y reply to requests for comment.

The advent of fast fashion, with consumers constantly buying and discarding clothing, has fuelled the risk of worker abuses in global supply chains as factories come under pressure from leading brands, activists say.

Boohoo came under fire after a media report in July said factory workers in Leicester, who were making clothes destined for Boohoo, were paid as little as £3.50 an hour, well below the legal minimum wage.

The group quickly commission­ed an independen­t review of its supply chain and in September accepted all of its recommenda­tions, and appointed retired judge Brian Leveson to oversee reforms.

Boohoo had to defend its supplier practices again last Tuesday (2) after a Sky News report said the £4-billion company faced the possibilit­y of a US import ban due to allegation­s over the use of slave labour in English supplier factories.

Last Friday’s letter before the follows Kamani’s appearance British committee in

December, when he vowed to fix failings which he said occurred because Boohoo had not developed processes quickly enough to keep up with its rapid growth.

The EAC launched a new inquiry seeking to end the era of throwaway fashion in October, citing concerns about its environmen­tal impact and factory conditions after the government in 2019 rejected its recommenda­tions from an earlier probe. The EAC’s letter said that, despite “positive steps”, Kamani’s comments in December “did little to dispel the impression the company has been focused on rapid growth regardless of the social or environmen­tal costs”.

“A move to link growth incentives to measurable ... criteria – such as the environmen­tal sustainabi­lity of your products and the welfare of workers – would demonstrat­e genuine commitment to environmen­tal and social responsibi­lity,” it added.

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 ??  ?? UNDER FIRE: Boohoo sells own-brand clothing, accessorie­s and beauty
products, targeted at 16- to 40-year-olds; (left)
Mahmud Kamani
UNDER FIRE: Boohoo sells own-brand clothing, accessorie­s and beauty products, targeted at 16- to 40-year-olds; (left) Mahmud Kamani

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