There are two main stages to completing your gravel pathway.

1 PREPPING YOUR SITE First, mark out the area with spray line. To outline the area for your path clearly, fix pins at either end and strain a line tightly between them. Use extra pins to navigate any bends, and make sure the line sits on the path’s inside edge, then compact the ground. I prefer not to use a weed-suppressing membrane beneath gravel paths; if you have a problem with pernicious perennial weeds, however, lay a membrane before adding the hardcore layer. 2 EDGING YOUR PATH There are many types of edging to contain your gravel, in addition to the ones shown here. The height of your edging relative to the gravel depends on what sort of gravel you use. If using self-binding gravel, take it almost to the top of your edging; if it’s pea gravel, I tend to keep it down to sit 20mm below the edging to stop it spilling over.

MATERIALS

■ Hardcore

■ Binding material (optional)

■ Gravel

■ Green tanalised timber edging and fixing pegs or bricks suitable for being used on the ground

■ Mortar (6:1 sharp sand to cement) for brick edging

TOOLS

■ Spray line

■ Line and pins

■ Tape measure and boat level

■ Hand saw

■ Lump hammer

■ Hand rammer or compacting plate

■ *Cordless drill and drill bits

■ *Screwdriver and screws (40mm)

■ Rake

■ Spade and shovel

■ Brick trowel

■ Brick bolster or circular saw with a brick-cutting blade

■ Safety goggles

* not needed for brick edging