Timber edging
Timber boards are a more cost-conscious edging material than bricks. I use roofing laths for pegs to hold the board as they are just the right dimensions.
1 After prepping your site, set your line for the height of your edging, making sure the line sits on the inside edge of the path. You don’t have to create straight paths with timber edging. If you want a curve, just use extra pins in your line to mark out the bends.
2 If you want your path to curve, you’ll need to create flexible edging boards. Soak the timber the night before. Carefully saw one-third of the way through at intervals; if you need more of a bend, saw at closer intervals until it fits the curve. Be careful – they can snap.
3 offer up the board to the height of your line or set level. Secure by putting in the first peg on the outside edge of the path. Check everything is vertical. hammer in the first peg so it sits 30mm below the board. Repeat, putting in a peg every metre along the length of the board. For curves, use pegs on the inside and outside to guide the board into the curved shape.
4 Fix the edging board to the pegs with screws, making sure you screw from the board out towards the pegs. Keep checking that the board is upright and sitting at the right height. here I’m using the height on an existing bed, but you may need a line.
5 To join two boards, put a section of wood across the join and screw it in place. use a lump hammer for support to push against. Remember to position the fixing board down from the top so you can hide it with soil or planting. With the boards fixed, spread hardcore to a depth of 100mm using the edging as a guide. Then compact the surface with a compacting plate until firm and level.
6 Rake out a 30mm layer of gravel so it sits about 20mm below the top of the edging boards.
7 Backfill the soil to the outer edge of the boards. once you’ve planted the bed, the board will ‘disappear’.