Award-winning chef ensures return to Scotland worth wait
Stuart Ralston’s Tipo restaurant was recently awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Rosalind Erskine finds an eaterie grown up in its look and offering.
Stuart Ralston is on a roll. With successful restaurants Aizle and Noto going strong, the Fife-born chef opened Tipo on Hanover Street in March 2023 and, more recently Lyla, at the end of 2023. Tipo was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand as part of the 2024 Guide and Lyla, which is on the site of the late Paul Kitching’s 21212, is tipped for a star next year.
When we spoke to Ralston in 2020, he explained he has always had a small chip on his shoulder about being successful in Scotland, which is the reason he returned to Edinburgh to open his restaurant, Aizle, in April 2014.
He said: “Scotland was the only place I’d never been successful. I felt like I did a lot in New York, had worked in London and then Barbados, but here no one really knew who I was and I was Scottish. I just wanted to rectify that by coming back to Edinburgh.”
People here certainly now know who he is, not only through his restaurants but also his stint on the Great British menu on BBC Two. This, plus the recent successes, count towards how busy Tipo becomes when we arrive for an early weekend lunch.
The beautiful, bright and airy space — located up the stairs at 110 Hanover Street — is ours for only about 20 minutes before the place is full. The interiors are pared back with light wooden tables, Scandi style chairs, a pink tiled bar with open shelving and lime washed walls. The menu, too, is pared back, short but succinct, and designed around sharing. This is an Italian inspired affair — from the menu to the artwork and Insta-friendly neon sign you’ll see when you start your ascent up the stairs to the dining room.
We started with cured halibut, served with chilli and grapes (£14). The translucent fish, sliced into firm slivers sat next to green grape halves, blobs of white horseradish mayo and topped with a vibrant green basil oil and mini rice crispy bits. A light and fresh dish, with a nice crunch and texture from mini rice crispy bits, we could have eaten several portions.
For the pasta, I chose the pappardelle with crab and chilli (£16) while my friend went for a classic bigoli cacio pepe with truffle (£16). Both pastas were cooked perfectly, with just a bit of bite. My thick strands of pappardelle were coated with a creamy sauce, flecked with a good portion of crab meat and flashes of bright red chilli. All of this was topped with a flurry of parmesan. There was a kick from the chilli and the freshness and sweetness of the crab cut through the sauce. Across the table, the cacio pepe was curled into a mound and topped with a generous shaving of black truffle.
For dessert we chose tiramisu (£7) and praline cannoli, salted caramel (£7). The generous bowl of tiramisu was topped with a thick layer of cream and chocolate shavings – inside the soft, coffee soaked sponge was exactly what was needed after the pasta.
We left the bustling restaurant nicely full and ready for the rest of the weekend. Tipo is a classy addition to this street in Edinburgh.