Live like a local
Our new series seeks out hidden gems in Europe’s most popular cities. This month, we take up residence in an area dubbed ‘the Soho of the Seine’
Our new series seeks out hidden gems in Europe’s most popular cities. This month, weekending in Pigalle, Paris
Instead of pounding the pavements from one popular landmark to the next, avoid the crowds and explore the continent’s most enticing cities like a native. Leave the Louvre until next time: for a low-key Parisian weekend, stay 20 minutes north in Pigalle.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD The ninth arrondissement’s former red light district, Pigalle has long been associated with ‘alternative’ scenes – from bohemian artists to the black market. South Pigalle, aka Sopi – the quarter’s new, Nyc-influenced nickname – is now well into a new groove thanks to a wave of modern designer-makers, one-off shops and tiny cocktail bars. ➤
WHERE TO STAY The brilliant new creation of Valéry Grégo, a skateboarding hotelier, is Le Pigalle hotel (1). ‘ We didn’t want to make a hotel that simply reflected what Pigalle is becoming, but what it was and still is. It still has grit,’ he says. French architecture practice Festen oversaw the design and the team describe the result as being ‘collaborative, underworld, a neighbourhood hotel.’ A newspaper vendor, beer brewer, florist Muse Montmartre and bookseller Les Arpenteurs are some of the local businesses that have been collaborating with the hotel (9 rue Frochot, doubles from £109 per night; designhotels.com).
The terrifically efficient One Fine Stay lists only the chicest private homes and provides guests with a locally tuned iphone and a discreet concierge service. Rue des Martyrs V (2) is our top pick in Pigalle (from £213 per night; onefinestay.com). BREAKFAST AND LUNCH Rue des Martyrs has some of the best speciality food shops in Paris. Find 57 varieties of shell-like génoise sponges at Mesdemoiselles Madeleines (3) and head to Maison Landemaine (4) for sourdough-style pain d’antan. You’ll find superfresh sashimi at Sushi Shop (5) and boxes of mendiants – dark chocolate with pistachios, dried apricots, raisins and hazelnuts – at caramélier Henri Le Roux (6). WINE AND DINE Buvette Gastrothèque (7) is a slice of New York’s West Village in France. As well as trendy fare like avocado on toast, there are plenty of traditional options – think tarte tatin sliced on an antique silver salver (28 rue Henry Monnier; buvette.com). A nightcap at the Belle Epoque-style Lulu White (8) – named after New Orleans’ 1800s demi-mondaine – where absinthe is dispatched from countertop urns, is a fine idea (12 rue Frochot; luluwhite.bar).
ARTS AND CULTURE The little-known Musée de la Vie Romantique (9) is housed in the green-shuttered former home of Dutch painter Ary Scheffer, where the likes of Delacroix and Dickens used to rendezvous. Today, it exhibits romantic paintings, and the garden is wonderful for taking tea (16 Rue Chaptal; vieromantique.paris.fr). You’ll find modern art at Halle Saint Pierre (10), located in a light-flooded former covered market (2 rue Ronsard; hallesaintpierre.org).
SHOP Visit humming embroidery workshop Zardosi (11) to have a pillowcase monogrammed (13 rue Henry Monnier; zardosi.fr) and pick up one of the city’s most sculptural bouquets at Debeaulieu (12), perfumer Frederic Malle’s go-to florist (30 rue Henry Monnier; debeaulieu-paris.com).
WHAT TO READ BEFORE YOU GO Best known for its quirky milkywhite ceramics, Astier de Villatte’s first foray into publishing is city guide Ma Vie À Paris, a gilt-edged tome that resembles a French novel’s unbound manuscript more than a tourist handbook, and is now available in English (£40; astierdevillatte.com).
ED