LIVE LIKE A LOCAL
WHERE TO STAY Having launched the original Acehotel innew York, Barcelona-born Inés Miró- Sans dreamed of running a similarly cool hotel in her hometown. Casa Bonay (1) is now open for business, with 67 stylish bedrooms, open-air showers and a bar (right) that fills every night with local creatives, whose pieces decorate the interior (from £112 per night; casabonay.com). Around the corner stands Casamathilda (2), a home-from-home hotel situated in a converted early 20th-century house with a stained glass door and airy interiors, designed by local Barbara Aurell (from £91 per night; casamathilda.com).
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BREAKFAST AND LUNCH First thing in the morning, follow the groups of chefsmaking their way to themercat de la Concepció (3) – the 1888-built wrought iron and glass warehouse, which is one of the city’s oldest markets and is as popular with gardeners seeking seeds as it is with home cooks buying Andalucian olive oil, La Floreta tomatoes and still-warm ‘integrale’ granary loaves. Afterwards, head to Gut (4) for lunch. Don’t let the name put you off, this relaxed restaurant, set in a simple, whitewashed space, furnished with old schoolroom chairs, serves light and delicious dishes of fresh octopus and confit tomato (restaurantgut.com). 3 WINE AND DINE Go for an ice-cold beer and plate of patatas bravas at Gràcia institution Cafe del Sol (5), or a ‘gintònic’ at trendy Elephanta (6) (elephanata.cat). For fine dining, reserve a table at Solomillo (7), which showcases the best of both contemporary Spanish design – Andalucian black marble countertops, ‘Carloa’ chairs by Spanish designer Andreuworld – and cooking (restaurantesolomillo.com). Finish your evening
by having your tarot cards read in
Les Gens Que J’aime (8),
a cool, candlelit jazz bar ( lesgensquejaime.com).
SHOP The well-loved art, literary and political book publisher Malpaso has opened its own bookshop in Barcelona. Libreriamalpaso (9) sells both edgy and traditional fiction and non-fiction editions, all beautifully bound, and hosts regular evening salons, when refreshments from its next door bar are served (malpasolibreria.com). For a design hit, head to furniture-makers AOO (10), which feels more like an artist’s open house than a shop (aoobarcelona.com). Or stop by Jaime Beriestain (11), a concept store and café where you can pick up colourful furniture (right), as well as clementine marmalade and beautifully packaged candles ( beriestain.com).
12 16 Palau de lamúsica
CULTURE AND ART Admire the façade of (12) or, even better, pop in to see a showand gaze at the stainedglass skylight (palaumusica.cat). More low-key venues include Galeriah2o (13), which specialises in design and furniture ( h2o.es), and Palau Robert (14), the neoclassical homewhich is nowan exhibition centre. Spend an afternoonmeandering around its sculpture-studded lawns (palaurobert.gencat.cat). INSIDER TIP For some time away from the crowds, rise early for a stroll around the emerald lake in the 70-acre Parc de la Ciutadella (15), just south of Eixample. Follow with a cup of the city’s best coffee at Satan’s Coffee Corner (16), run by Marcos Bartolomé, the fifth generation of his family to sell delicious coffee in the city.