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WHERE TO STAY Hav­ing launched the orig­i­nal Ace­ho­tel in­new York, Barcelona-born Inés Miró- Sans dreamed of run­ning a sim­i­larly cool ho­tel in her home­town. Casa Bonay (1) is now open for busi­ness, with 67 stylish bed­rooms, open-air show­ers and a bar (right) that fills ev­ery night with lo­cal cre­atives, whose pieces dec­o­rate the in­te­rior (from £112 per night; Around the cor­ner stands Casamathilda (2), a home-from-home ho­tel sit­u­ated in a con­verted early 20th-cen­tury house with a stained glass door and airy interiors, de­signed by lo­cal Barbara Aurell (from £91 per night;

7 1 1

BREAK­FAST AND LUNCH First thing in the morn­ing, fol­low the groups of chef­s­mak­ing their way to the­mer­cat de la Con­cep­ció (3) – the 1888-built wrought iron and glass ware­house, which is one of the city’s old­est mar­kets and is as pop­u­lar with gar­den­ers seek­ing seeds as it is with home cooks buy­ing An­dalu­cian olive oil, La Floreta toma­toes and still-warm ‘in­te­grale’ gra­nary loaves. Af­ter­wards, head to Gut (4) for lunch. Don’t let the name put you off, this re­laxed restau­rant, set in a sim­ple, white­washed space, fur­nished with old school­room chairs, serves light and de­li­cious dishes of fresh oc­to­pus and con­fit tomato (restau­ 3 WINE AND DINE Go for an ice-cold beer and plate of patatas bravas at Gràcia in­sti­tu­tion Cafe del Sol (5), or a ‘gin­tònic’ at trendy Ele­phanta (6) (ele­ For fine din­ing, re­serve a ta­ble at Solomillo (7), which show­cases the best of both con­tem­po­rary Span­ish de­sign – An­dalu­cian black mar­ble coun­ter­tops, ‘Car­loa’ chairs by Span­ish de­signer An­dreuworld – and cook­ing (restau­ran­ Fin­ish your evening

by hav­ing your tarot cards read in

Les Gens Que J’aime (8),

a cool, can­dlelit jazz bar ( les­gen­sque­


SHOP The well-loved art, lit­er­ary and po­lit­i­cal book pub­lisher Mal­paso has opened its own book­shop in Barcelona. Li­bre­riamal­paso (9) sells both edgy and tra­di­tional fic­tion and non-fic­tion edi­tions, all beau­ti­fully bound, and hosts reg­u­lar evening sa­lons, when re­fresh­ments from its next door bar are served (mal­pa­soli­bre­ For a de­sign hit, head to fur­ni­ture-mak­ers AOO (10), which feels more like an artist’s open house than a shop (aoo­ Or stop by Jaime Beri­es­tain (11), a con­cept store and café where you can pick up colour­ful fur­ni­ture (right), as well as cle­men­tine mar­malade and beau­ti­fully pack­aged can­dles ( beri­es­

12 16 Palau de lamúsica

CUL­TURE AND ART Ad­mire the façade of (12) or, even bet­ter, pop in to see a showand gaze at the stained­glass sky­light (palau­mu­ More low-key venues in­clude Ga­le­ri­ah2o (13), which spe­cialises in de­sign and fur­ni­ture (, and Palau Robert (14), the neo­clas­si­cal home­which is nowan ex­hi­bi­tion cen­tre. Spend an af­ter­noon­me­an­der­ing around its sculp­ture-stud­ded lawns (palau­robert.gen­ IN­SIDER TIP For some time away from the crowds, rise early for a stroll around the emer­ald lake in the 70-acre Parc de la Ci­u­tadella (15), just south of Eixample. Fol­low with a cup of the city’s best cof­fee at Satan’s Cof­fee Cor­ner (16), run by Mar­cos Bar­tolomé, the fifth gen­er­a­tion of his fam­ily to sell de­li­cious cof­fee in the city.


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