Explore Spain’s northern design powerhouse Bilbao with our guide
Spain’s northern design powerhouse is experiencing a second renaissance, with a vibrant food scene and exciting new architectural projects in the pipeline
THE CITY When Frank Gehry’s soaring Guggenheim Museum (pictured) opened in 1997 it famously transformed this industrial port into a world-leading design destination. Since then, the city – currently the only one in Spain to be named a UNESCO City of Design – has been winning over visitors with not just its contemporary art and architecture credentials, but also its traditional Basque cuisine (pintxos rule here; don’t confuse them with tapas) and culture. A recent poll by Airbnb discovered that the number of people booking stays in Bilbao for 2020 increased by a staggering 402 per cent last year – the city is clearly having a moment in the spotlight, one that’s every bit as exciting as the original Guggenheim effect.
WHERE TO STAY
There is much more to Bilbao than the Guggenheim, but if you want to be at the heart of the city’s design scene, the stretch of riverside that it calls home is the place to be. Situated just across the road from Jeff Koon’s floral Puppy sculpture, Gran Hotel Domine’s towering atrium brings to mind the architecture of another great museum: the Guggenheim in New York City. With an interior by Spanish designer Javier Mariscal, its rooms feature furniture by Frank Gehry (from £153 per night; hoteldominebilbao.com). Named after one of Spain’s most famous artists, the nearby Hotel Miró is as renowned for its art collection and locally sourced breakfast as it is for its stylish rooms (from £73; mirohotelbilbao.com). Finally, one of the newer additions to the city, Hotel Takyo, situated in the Casco Viejo (the old town), visually combines Bilbao’s industrial past with its artistic present. Rooms feature concrete, exposed brick and sleek furnishings (from £80; takyohotels.com).
BREAKFAST & LUNCH
There are few more memorable ways to begin the day than in the elaborately beautiful Café Iruña, opened in 1903. Pick up a coffee and a breakfast pintxo (a small savoury snack served on a piece of bread) for under €3 (cafeirunabilbao.net). If you want a more leisurely start to the day, Sua San offers healthy brunch options in trendy surroundings (suasan.com). To prepare your appetite for lunch, take a stroll around La Ribera, the largest indoor food market in Europe, before popping into the nearby El Perro Chico (elperrochico.com). This eatery’s blue tiles are said to have inspired Gehry, who painted the offices in the Guggenheim the same colour. Today, it serves classic dishes, like fresh anchovies with bread and tomato, as well as Asian and Brazilian-inspired fare. For a taste of the sea (Bilbao is a historic port, after all) stop in at El Puertito, a tiny oyster bar serving seven varieties of the salty delicacy (elpuertito.es).
WINE & DINE
Serving an inventive take on the best of the Basque country’s produce, which has earned its chef patron Álvaro Garrido a Michelin star, Mina Restaurante is the place to book. Every evening it offers a new tasting menu (10 or 14 courses), opening its doors to just 24 diners (restaurantemina.es). For foodie traditionalists, a night at deli and wine shop Casa Rufo is essential. Its croquettes are so good, owner Jose Luis claims they have attained mythic status among locals (casarufo.com). For an equally authentic meal, try the cod Bizkaina style (with a delicious roasted pepper sauce) at El Txoko Berria (eltxoko berria.com). The interior has the feel of the relaxed txokos, or members-only dining clubs, that are a big part of Basque culture.
ART & CULTURE
It is impossible to discuss Bilbao without mentioning the iconic Guggenheim, which has already loomed large on these pages. This spring, it will host Olafur Eliasson’s interactive ‘In Real Life’ exhibition (ideal for anyone who missed its recent stint at London’s Tate Modern) alongside permanent sculptures by the likes of Richard Serra and Louise Bourgeois (guggenheim-bilbao.eus). A short walk away is the Bilbao Fine Arts Museum, which is soon to gain a new contemporary extension designed by Foster + Partners. Housing
THERE ARE FEW MORE MEMORABLE WAYS TO START THE DAY THAN IN ELABORATELY BEAUTIFUL CAFÉ IRUÑA
a wide spectrum of work, from 17th-century religious pieces by Francisco de Zurbarán to surrealist gems by Francis Bacon, it’s a varied delight (museobilbao.com). As the light fades, make your way to Azkuna Zentroa – the cultural venue, with a striking interior by famed French designer Philippe Starck, has a rooftop bar that’s a hit with locals. Before you grab an aperitif, peruse the 43 colourful and decorative pillars (the work of 120 craftspeople) that support its walls (azkunazentroa.eus).
SHOPPING
Located in a former warehouse, Persuade is a shopping arcade that is at once rustic (exposed wooden ceiling beams and brick) and polished. Here you can browse fashionforward pieces by Issey Miyake and Shiro Sakai, as well as items for the home, both vintage and cutting-edge (persuade.es). Also worth a visit is Narata, opened by two locals who returned from living in London with an idea to create a concept store that blends the worlds of fashion and homeware (naratashop.blogspot.com). Finally, for Basque culinary delicacies to take home (think tins of anchovies and jars of peppers), visit La Bendita. Hidden in the old town, this shop is a delight for foodies (labenditabilbao.com).
ESCAPE THE CITY
Just a one-hour drive away, the picturesque seaside town of San Sebastián has an undeniable allure. We suggest sidestepping its sandy beach, though, and stopping at Hernani, a small town nearby, where you will find Chillida Leku, a sculpture park dedicated to the work of Basque artist Eduardo Chillida. Closed since 2011, it reopened last year with help from international gallerists Hauser & Wirth, meaning visitors can once again marvel at how these gargantuan works interact with this dynamic stretch of coastline (museochillidaleku.com).