TOAST OF THE TOWN

Contemporary but characterful, the new restaurant at London’s Whitechapel Gallery is truly a work of art

If it weren’t for the fact that diners enter Townsend restaurant via the main entrance of London’s Whitechapel Gallery, you might not clock its attachment to the arts space beyond. Which is a good thing. While so many museum eateries struggle to escape the faint institutional whiff that pervades, Townsend has a welcoming yet sophisticated feel that instantly speaks of care and quality. Billed as a ‘modern British dining room’, the interiors by design and architecture practice Project Orange are contemporary but respectful of the building’s history, with the restaurant named after the architect who created it. Inside, original parquet floors and reclaimed fittings from the Victorian library that once occupied next door give character, while the pared-back look allows the soaring ceilings and elegant bone structure to shine – think timber and mirrored panelling, seating by Carl Hansen & Søn and simple glass pendants.

Ex-Petersham Nurseries head chef Joe Fox, meanwhile, puts a creative spin on British fare; bacon scones with goat’s curd and chives, roast wood pigeon with parsnip hash and Cornish leeks, and poached Yorkshire rhubarb, rosemary shortbread and clotted cream were just some of the dishes on offer during our visit. With its well-curated menu and artful composition of ingredients, perhaps Townsend gives away its gallery connection after all (whitechapelgallery.org/townsend).