MY FASHIONABLE LIFE: KATHARINE HAMNETT
THE DESIGN VETERAN, 72, ON BOARDING SCHOOL STYLE, MEETING NELSON MANDELA AND WHY SHE WISHES SHE’D CHOSEN A LIFE OUTSIDE OF FASHION
The design veteran on never being afraid to make a statement with her clothes and why she wishes she’d chosen a career outside of fashion
I I WORE. REMEMBER When FIGHTING I was four I wanted WITH MY to wear MOTHER one dress ABOUT all the WHAT time. It was a blue and white checked smock with a twee velvet collar that she’d probably made. I used to fish it out of the wash and put it on wet.
WE MOVED TO FRANCE WHEN I WAS FIVE. It was the 195Os, so of course French Vogue was on the table the whole time and we were surrounded by fabulously chic French women. By default, it gave me an extraordinary fashion education. BOARDING SCHOOL TAUGHT ME TO LOVE UNIFORMS.
I was there for 1O years and I still often dress in a uniform: I have six identical jumpers and five pairs of trousers, all black. It sounds boring, but it depends on the shape of the piece. It gives my mind space to be creative – get over it, you look fine, it’s what you do that’s important. I HAVE BEEN MAKING MY OWN CLOTHES SINCE I WAS 12.
I was the only person doing needlework in my physics and chemistry classes. When I was young, I made sexy things. The kind of things my mother wouldn’t allow me to wear: tight, straight skirt numbers. THERE’S NO ROOM FOR EGO WHEN IT’S YOUR BUSINESS.
Your clothes have to sell. When I set up Katharine Hamnett London, as well as designing, I was in charge of marketing and advertising – even debt collecting. We had to make a profit from day one or we were dead. I had to go to the shops that hadn’t paid their invoices and hurl furniture. And when a collection didn’t sell, I’d think,
Oh my god, I’ve f*cked up here, and go back to the drawing board.
IF YOU CAN MAKE A STAND,YOU HAVE AN OBLIGATION TO MAKE ONE. When I wore the T-shirt [saying ‘58% Don’t Want Pershing’ in reference to the US Army’s controversial Pershing II guided missile being deployed in West Germany] to meet Margaret Thatcher, it was totally appropriate. Things need to be protested. I’VE ENJOYED GETTING OLDER. You no longer spend two hours changing out of 2O outfits like when you’re a teenager. You know what feels right, you put it on and then you can forget about it. THE MOST STYLISH MAN I’VE MET WAS NELSON
MANDELA. His shirts were hysterical, very Versace. My friend made an ad with him for Telecom Italia and invited me to Johannesburg to meet him. Years afterward, at an NGO meeting in West Africa, I put my hand on the table and asked, ‘Who wants to shake the hand that shook Mandela’s?’ The table was covered in arms, it was beautiful. I’VE GOT A DOG WITH A TASTE FOR SHOES. He’s called Arthur and he loves calf leather, Isabel Marant and Jimmy Choo. Even Converse. It’s really annoying, I’ve lost many great pairs of shoes. CHOOSING FASHION AS A JOB WAS A MAJOR MISTAKE.
Every single process comes at an appalling price for the planet. My first dream was to become a film director, I should have done that. WHEN I DIE, I PLAN TO BE SERVED ON A PLATTER TO TIGERS. I don’t want to be buried and the poor tigers at the zoo look hungry. I won’t need clothes for that – freedom from fashion at last.