The designer...

MAME KUROGOUCHI MEET JAPAN’S BREAKOUT FASHION DESIGN STAR WHO’S MAKING TRADITIONAL CRAFT COOL

Italian luxury brand Tod’s likes to surprise. First came its dazzling collaboration with beloved designer Alber Elbaz. Now? They’ve done it all over again, this time partnering with up-and-coming Tokyo designer Mame Kurogouchi (right). Dubbed by critics as the next Sacai, Kurogouchi fuses romanticism with Japanese tradition in a way that’s modern, layering gauzy dresses and silks over precise tailoring and bold floral prints. ‘I want to open more doors for women and create something that fits into every lifestyle,’ says the designer, whose real name is Maiko. The ‘Mame’ in the brand’s name translates to ‘bean’ in English – a nickname she was given due to her diminutive size.

The intricacy of her craftsmanship is steeped in Japanese tradition, learned from Bunka design school, the alma mater of designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe, and Kurogouchi’s time working with Issey Miyake before launching her own brand in 2O1O. ‘My small but nature-rich hometown Nagano has always been at the root of my work,’ she says. ‘But I’m not insistent on Japanese craft, it’s always been an organic choice. If there is any meaning in producing something new, it has to bear a certain value.’

That’s what fans of Tod’s signature styles, such as its gum-soled driving shoes, can expect from this collaboration, plus new accessories by Kurogouchi. ‘Craftsmanship is the new logo,’ she says. So the designs, like her own label, feature minimal branding, letting details such as a leather embroidery technique that echoes traditional kogin zashi embroidery stand out. ‘Mame Kurogouchi is a small brand; I want to bring Japanese craftsmanship to a wider audience,’ she adds. ‘Tod’s and I have that in common.’ Tod’s T Factory x Mame Kurogouchi is available at tods.com