THREE DAYS IN EDINBURGH
Head to a city where old meets new, discovering the Scottish capital’s classic architecture, experimental dining scene and quirky creative quarter
Historic views, luxury accommodation and a burgeoning foodie scene awaits you in the Scottish capital
DAY 1
Stay at the old National Bank of Scotland or, as it’s now known, Cheval The Edinburgh Grand, where modern interiors mix with original art deco features. Start exploring right away or enjoy an induction cocktail at The Register Club. With no street entrance, this 1920s-style bar seems like an accidental speakeasy, and one the city’s imbibers would rather keep under wraps.
THE HOT TICKET Fhior
Boundary-pushing tasting menus and sustainably sourced produce – book ahead for a table at this in-demand spot (inset).
DAY 2
Best enjoyed on foot, explore the labyrinthine streets of the Old Town with an Invisible Cities tour. Hosted by locals once affected by homelessness, you’ll see a side of the city that you won’t find in the pages of a travel guide. For a post-walk sugar hit, try one of the wonderfully weird flavour pairings at cutesy gelateria Mary’s Milk Bar (inset), best savoured on the steps of The Vennel viewpoint, overlooking Edinburgh Castle.
DON’T MISS Brossbagels
Montreal-style, hand-rolled bagels have taken over the Scottish capital (pictured far left). Deliciously filthy and served with sarcasm, seek out comedian-turned-bagel lady Mama Bross for the daily special.
DAY 3
Venture beyond the Old Town to Leith or Stockbridge to mingle with the creative crowd. Shop vegan fashion at Treen; records, books and quirky homeware at Good Vibes Neighbourhood Store & Studios; and hunt for vintage treasures on St Stephen Street. If you choose the latter, refuel with cheese and wine and a side of people-watching at the always-chic Smith & Gertrude.
THE PARTING SHOT Calton Hill
With the cityscape spread below, Calton Hill boasts a sunset view like no other. Pack a hip flask of Scotch – or, for a weatherproof sundowner, book a table at The Lookout, a glass restaurant at the top of the viewpoint, and give a toast to this stately city.