RETHINKING WALES
While the true glory of a Welsh road trip is, of course, its lush countryside, dramatic mountains and magnificent beaches and cliffs, I still think you should kick it off in the capital, Cardiff. A wander around the Victorian arcades is a must if it’s drizzling, as is getting a short water taxi from Bute Park to Cardiff Bay where the famous Millennium Centre sits. If there are clear skies, nab a pastry from Portuguese bakery chain Nata & Co and head to Cardiff Castle. Afterwards, you can walk (or cycle) up to Castell Coch along the river Taff through the parks. Either way, you should end your day with dinner at independent Welsh bistro Milkwood. City life ticked off, hit the road and spend a night or two in the Brecon Beacons National Park to experience its beautiful, dense forest and mystical waterfalls. Stop off for treats at The Angel Bakery and Talgarth Mill, and stay at Llanthony Priory Hotel – a part-ruined 12th-century monastery, now home to a hotel and campsite. From there, head along the south coast. Be sure to visit the Gower Peninsula and eat lunch at Michelin-star restaurant The Beach House in Oxwich. It sits on the stunning Three Cliffs Bay, the ideal place to walk off an indulgent meal, though you might need to dash to catch low tide if you want to walk to the island of Worm’s Head (which you should do if you’re partial to a good view). Onwards along the coast, stop off at Laugharne, former home to poet Dylan Thomas (you can visit his writing shed) and an idyllic coastal village. Then, visit Stackpole to glimpse some wild ponies, before reaching the famous tourist honeypot of St Davids. The small city is on many ‘must visit’ lists, and it is jam-packed with delights (a cathedral, cute cafes). However, if you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-track experience, you could well skip St Davids and go straight to Cardigan Bay (via the Blue Lagoon, an azure blue-flooded slate quarry you can swim in). Use self-catering apartments or luxury glamping site Fforest as a base to discover the charming Bay, take a boat trip to spot dolphins in the day and return home for dinner at Fforest’s in-house pizza restaurant (complete with its home-brewed beer). Next, make your way north with a few pit stops along the way (depending on how much time you’ve got). There’s Devil’s Bridge Falls (for some wow-factor), Oriel Davies Gallery (for some culture), Medina cafe (for a Mediterraneanstyle refuelling), and Two Island Ice Cream (for, you know, ice cream) before spending a night or two sleeping in a bluebell wood at the eco-friendly Living Room Treehouses. Well-rested from your nights nestled in the treetops, keep travelling upwards to Portmeirion for the most magical leg of your journey: a folly village, built between 1925 and 1975 in the style of an Italian resort, you may never visit a more bonkers yet enchanting place. We stayed at the on-site hotel to truly absorb the experience, but you could just stop off for the day. Finally, you’ll reach the island of Anglesey. There, you’ll not only find unparalleled beauty, but a buzzing independent scene – we loved the Scandi lifestyle shop Janet Bell for knick knacks, and the outdoor Tide cafe at Halen Môn – a sea salt production facility you can take tours around (sounds boring, but it really isn’t). With nothing but the Atlantic in front of you, it’s time to head home – but not before you pick up a bottle of wine from Gwinllan Conwy vineyard and some snacks from Hawarden Estate Farm Shop. Driving is a hungry business, after all.
“Go off the beaten track at the BLUE LAGOON – an azure-flooded slate quarry you can swim in”